ISitrato iSmith ngoku ngumhlaba weemveliso zesizwe. (Ifoto: U-Emily Assiran / uMqwalaseli wezoRhwebo)
Fokanye eBrooklynites yobudala obuthile obukele ngendlela evakalayo njengoko iBrooklyn ithathe amanyathelo ayo okuqala ukusuka ebusaneni ukuya kwi-gentrification egcweleyo, iiveki ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo khange kube yinto enqabileyo.
I-Grocery, eyona ndawo ibalaseleyo yokutyela ecaleni kweSmith Street, aka Restaurant Row, yayivalwa. Inqaku lokuvalelisa lalincanyathiselwe efestileni:
Kuqhutywe kakhulu, inqaku laqala, kodwa inkonzo yokugqibela yeGrocery iya kuba ngoMgqibelo, nge-27 kaJuni. (Abanini abazibuyisanga iifowuni zeCommerce Braganca ngexesha lokushicilela, kwaye ii-imeyile zabuya zabuya.)
I-Grocery yafika kwisitalato i-288 Smith kwisithuba seminyaka ye-1990s xa umtya wawusaselunxwemeni kwaye idumpy (intolongo ekwiAtlantic Avenue ayincedanga) kodwa le yokutyela enezihlalo ezingama-30 eqhutywa ngumyeni nenkosikazi yaseSavoy naseGotham Bar & Grill iseke ulwandle. Ngandlela-thile, i-Grocery yagcwala indlela yayo ukuya kwindawo yokutyela ekwindawo yesixhenxe ephezulu eNew York City ngo-2004 Zagat ’s Isikhokelo emva koLe Bernadin kuphela, uDaniel, uPeter Luger, uNobu, uBouley noJean Georges. Kwiminyaka embalwa elandelayo, iivenkile zokutyela zaqala ukuhluma kumhlaba okufutshane weSmith Street obaleka esuka eDowntown eBrooklyn edlula eCobble Hill naseCarroll Gardens. Ayikho enye ibhloko eBrooklyn, ngaphandle, mhlawumbi, iFifth Avenue ePark Slope okanye eBedford Avenue eWilliamsburg, ebonakala ingumfuziselo ongcono wokunqweneleka kwesithili-kwaye iGrocery yayingukhokho wayo.
Ngoku ihambile. Kakhulu. UCharles Kiely noSharon Pachter bathe kwinqaku labo lokuvalelisa ukuba emva kwehlobo bazakubamba imicimbi yabucala kwindawo.
Ukuba loo slug iya emathunjini ayizange ibambe, inqaku elilandelayo lolwazi ngokuqinisekileyo lenze: I-Char No. 4 yayivala ivenkile nayo. 
(Ifoto: UMax Gross / uMqwalaseli wezoRhwebo)
Ngendlela yayo, oku kwakumangalisa ngakumbi. I-Char No. 4 e-196 Smith Street yayihambelana kancinci nomoya wehipster eBrooklyn ngowama-2015. Inew York Umgxeki wephephancwadi u-Adam Platt wagxobhoza kwimenyu yayo ye-bourbon wayibiza ngokuba yenye yeendawo zokutyela ezili-101 ezona zixeko ngo-2012. (Washiya i-Grocery kuloluhlu ngokupheleleyo.) Iidiners zahlambalaza malunga ne-brunch kunye ne-lamb pastrami. Amaxesha amaninzi kwakulindelwa itafile.
UChar No. 4 wayenenkonzo yakhe yokugqibela ngeCawa.
Ukujonga ngakuSmith Street ngoku, kusisithunzi sobuqu bayo bangaphambili.
IBurger eSmith kwisitalato i-209 Smith ivaliwe. (Abaqeshi abalindelweyo kufuneka babize uGlenn Vogel osuka kwi-Thor Equities, onolwazi olunxibelelana naye lubhalwe kwiifestile.) I-Irish pub Ceol ekwi-191 Smith Street ivaliwe ngoku. ISavoia kwi-277 Smith Street ivaliwe.
Nokuba iindawo ezingakhange zibhubhe ngenxa yokunyuka kwerente okanye ukugcwala kweenyawo ezisezantsi okanye ukuthengiswa kwesakhiwo okanye nantoni na ebangela ukuba ishishini lisilele, ishiye imeko engcono, njengoSawule, indawo yokutyela eneenkwenkwezi eMichelin e140 Smith Street , eyayinyusa isiseko sendlu entsha kwiMyuziyam yaseBrooklyn emva kowama-2013.
Ewe, ayizizo iivenkile zokutyela kuphela ezinike iSmith Street umoya wamangcwaba-amanye amashishini okutya nawo avaliwe. Ibhokisi yeNut, ivenkile yempahla eyomileyo, enika ikofu emnandi, imarzipan kunye neziqhamo ezomisiweyo (oh, ewe, kunye namandongomane), ivule isebe kwi-Broadway phakathi kwe-West 104th kunye ne-West 105th Streets eManhattan kwinyanga ephelileyo, kwaye inenye indawo kwiNtengiso yaseChelsea, kodwa ivaliwe kwindawo yayo yesitalato i-163 Smith kunyaka ophelileyo. (Umqondiso wayo usaphakanyisiwe.) Ivenkile enkulu yaseMet iyadilizwa ukuze kwenziwe indawo yokuthengisa izinto ezinkulu, ezibiza kakhulu, ezinamaxabiso amabini. Ngoku ka Umsebenzi wokwenene , Iqela likaJackson, iAurora Capital kunye noLawulo lwe-ACHS bathenga isiza e-205 Smith Street nge- $ 18.5 yezigidi kunyaka ophelileyo.
Kwenzeka ntoni kanye kanye?
Kukho izinto ezininzi ezenzeka ngaxeshanye. Ngokuqinisekileyo, inxalenye elungileyo inento yokwenza nokunyuka kweerhafu.
Ngokuka-Ofer Cohen, umongameli we-TerraCRG, irente eSmith Street inyuke yaya kwi-90- ukuya kwi-130 yeedola kwisikwere sonyawo. 
(Ifoto: UMax Gross / uMqwalaseli wezoRhwebo)
Irente iphindwe kabini ukusukela oko saqala ukuvula ngo-2004, utshilo uLexy Funk, igosa eliyintloko kunye nomsunguli weeBrooklyn Industries, ivenkile yezambatho kwikona yeSitrato i-Smith kunye neAtlantic Avenue, owayehlala ngaphezulu kwesitalato iSmith Street iminyaka eliqela. ngaphambi kokufudukela kwiiRockaways. Kukukhula ngokukhawuleza kwerente, kuba nzima kakhulu ukuqhubeka, utshilo uNksk Funk.
Ukuphinda kabini irente kubonakala ukuba akukho nokuba kubi kangako. Into onayo abagcini bezinto zokutyala ingathatha iminyaka eli-10 yokuqeshisa… kwaye ngoku ukuqeshisa [kuphelelwe lixesha], kufuneka bahlawule kathathu, bangaphindi kabini irente, utshilo uMnu. Cohen.
Ukuba uyindawo ye-sushi kwaye ungahambisa iibhloko ezintathu uqhubele phambili kwaye uhlawule iipesenti ezingama-50 kwirente kwaye usondele ngokwaneleyo [apho wawukho], uza kuya ezantsi, utshilo uMnu. Cohen.
Kodwa ayisiyiyo nje inyuka irhafu ebulala indawo yamaziko. Kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo iStrat Street yaba yindawo ekuya kuyo iimveliso zelizwe. Abathengisi abanjengoLucky Brand bavule kwisitrato i-135 Smith; I-Intermix yathatha indawo eshiywe nguSawule e-140 Smith Street. Ivenkile yokugcina iiglasi zamehlo iAnne & Valentin ineendawo zokuthengisa eParis, eSoho nakwisitrato i200 Smith. Isigaba esilandelayo se-gentrification (iimveliso zelizwe eziqala ukuhlasela kwazo) ngokucacileyo kuthi.
Namhlanje, abantu abaninzi batyikitya izivumelwano zempahla-zii-lululemons, utshilo uRyan Condren, umlawuli olawula ukuthengiswa kweentengiso ze-CPEX. Akuninzi imivalo kunye neeresityu. … Ivenkile ngakumbi kunevenkile yokutyela.
Oko kungatsho ukuba akukho ndawo zokutyela zizayo, okanye ngekhe kubekhona uhlobo emva kobomi kwiRow Restaurant.
Uneendawo zokutyela ezihlala eWilliamsburg ngokuphindwe kabini [irente] yento uSmith ayijongileyo eSmith Street, utshilo uJoey Terzi waseTerraCRG. Uninzi lwabo bafana lujonge ePark Slope naseCobble Hill kuba uSmith uyafana neBedford [Avenue eWilliamsburg] [kwi] nyathela zayo.
Ukuqiniseka, kusekho iindlela zokutyela ezinomdla ku-Smith Smith-ukusuka kumalungu e-ramen afana ne-Dassara, ukuya kwindawo entle yokutyela efana neBattersby, kwiindawo zokutyela zesikolo esidala sase-Italiya ezinje nge-Vinny, ukuya kwiindawo zokupheka ezinjenge-Milk Bar kaDavid Chang. Kodwa elinye icandelo lebali kukuba iSmith Street iye yaba lixhoba lempumelelo yayo; Unengxaki yokugcwala kwiindawo zokutyela.
Ndicinga ukuba lukhona ukhuphiswano olukhulu kunangaphambili xa sasivula, utshilo uSean Josephs, ongomnye wabanini be-Char No 4. Indawo yokutyela yaseBrooklyn yandile kakhulu-nakwezinye iindawo zaseBrooklyn, ukusuka Indawo ejikeleze iBarclays, ukuya eDowntown eBrooklyn, ukuya eFort Greene ukuya eBushwick.
Emuva ngo-2012, ishishini likaChar No. 4 lalihamba nezihange. Kodwa ukuqala ngo-2013, uMnu.Josephs uthe kuye kwakho ukwehla kancinci kodwa ngokuthe chu.
Sasikule ndawo yokutyela inye, utshilo uMnu. Josephs, kodwa saye sahlala sixakekile. Ndicinga ukuba inani labantu litshintshile kakhulu-abantu abaninzi ababelapha babekhutshiwe ngaphandle kwirente ephezulu yezorhwebo kodwa yerenti ephezulu yokuhlala. Ivenkile enkulu ethengisa ezitalatweni ezitratweni ivelise ukugcwala kweenyawo kubantu basekuhlaleni, utshilo. Kwaye ngelixa uChar No. 4 efumana isabelo sendawo yokutyela apho baya khona, abahlali yayingumqolo weshishini lakhe. Ngokukhetha okuninzi ngakumbi (kunye nengeniso ephezulu kakhulu) abantu bendawo khange basive isidingo sokutya kwindawo yakhe yokutyela kakhulu.
Esinye isikhonkwane ebhokisini likaSmith Street ibeyeyona ndlela inqwenelekayo kangakanani iSitalato saseNkundla, ibhloko ekude, esiye-kubo bobabini abaxhasi kunye nabathengisi.
Kunzima [kwivenkile yempahla] iRag kunye neBone ukuba zikuSmith zinikwe iiplate ezincinci ezincinci ezikhoyo, utshilo uMnu Terzi. Yiyo loo nto besenkundleni. UJ. Crew uya eNkundleni. UJacadi Paris uya eNkundleni-kwaye bahlawula i-150 leedola ngeenyawo. Kuyabonakala ukuba, bakulungele ukufumana ubunzima kwirente ephezulu ukuba babe kwibhloko enqweneleka ngakumbi.
I-Barneys [ngo-1949 Atlantic Avenue, ngaphandle nje kwe-Court Street] yaba yi-anchor enjalo [kwintengiso yabamelwane] kunye ne-Trader Joe's [e-130 Court Street] yaba yi-ankile kwezinye iivenkile, utshilo uMnu Cohen. Kuthathe iminyaka embalwa, kodwa ukuba uyi-boutique ephezulu ufuna ukuba kufutshane ne-Street Street.
UMnu Josephs uvumile kakhulu.
Kwiminyaka emihlanu edlulileyo ukuba uChipotle wayefuna ukuza kule ndawo bangaya eSmith, utshilo uMnu. Josephs. Ngoku baseNkundleni kufutshane neTrader Joe. Abafana abahlanu, yinto enye. Ndicinga ukuba oko kubonisa utshintsho.
Umnumzana Josephs uxele ukuba uninzi lwabathengi bakhe bothukile bakuva ukuba uyayivala indawo yakhe. Ukusukela oko kwabhengezwa igumbi lakhe lokutyela belipakishwe ngabona bathengi babalaseleyo, ababekhumbula amaxesha amnandi eChar No. 4.
Ukuya kuthi ga kwinqanaba elithile, eli bali lokunyuka kunye nokuwa liyafana kuninzi lweendlela zeNew York City. Isitalato i-Smith ngokungathandabuzekiyo siyakuthatha omnye umzimba kwixesha elizayo. Kodwa kumaziko anike esi sitalato i-mojo kwaye ebonakala ngathi ibeka umntu ekuvuseleleni eBrooklyn, umntu kufuneka alile iinyembezi. Siphakamise iglasi ye-whisky kwimemori yabo kodwa uChar No. 4 akasekho. Ukuzama enye yezinto ezikhethwe nguMnu. Josephs, ngoku kuya kufuneka uye eMaysville-indawo yakhe yokutyela egxile kubourbon kwiSithili saseFlatiron eManhattan. Lo mmandla uqhuba kakuhle kakhulu.
Inguqulelo yeli bali ekuqaleni yavela ngoJulayi 15, 2015 umba we Umqwalaseli woRhwebo.
