Iiveki ezimbalwa ezidlulileyo, i-Women's Wear Daily yaqhuba isiqwenga malunga nokwanda okukhulayo kwezigidi zeblogger. Ewe ufunda ilungelo. Iibhlog zeblog zebhola ephezulu ngoku zifumana ngaphezulu kwe- $ 1 yezigidi ngonyaka. Oko kumalunga ne-950,000 yeedola ngaphezulu kotitshala wesikolo saseNew York City okanye isicima mlilo. Impendulo yam yokuqala yayikukungakholelwa kunye nomsindo, kulandele imeko yokudakumba.
[ITAL] Isigidi seedola ?! Ukuthumela ii-selfie zambethe iimpahla ezinesiphiwo okanye ukhenketho olungaqhelekanga kunye neziganeko ababehlawulwe ngazo ukuya? Isigidi seedola, ngamanye amagama, ngokwenza nto ngaphandle kokubonisa kwaye uncume ikhamera.
Uninzi lweebhlogi kwiKlabhu yeDola yezigidi zizitayile zesitrato, ii-PYTs ezinemifanekiso yekhamera ekulungeleyo ukuba zivuya kakhulu ukuxhaphaza i-buck-okanye i-40,000 yeerandi, kwimeko kaChiara Ferragni we-Blonde Isaladi, ehlawulwe imali engaka ukuba iye kwivenkile yaseStuart Weitzman evula eMilan kunyaka ophelileyo, ngokwe-WWD. Into enomdla kukuba, uninzi lweebhlogger ezihlawulwa kakhulu azaziwa kumzi mveliso wefashoni (apho izithandani ezivunyiweyo ezinje ngeLeandra Medine yeMan Repeller, uBryan Grey Yambao waseBryanboy kunye nomyuziyam uHanneli Mustaparta olawula indawo yokuhlala).
Thatha, umzekelo, uRachel Parcell weblogi yaseSalt Lake City eneminyaka emithathu ubudala i-Pink Peonies http://pinkpeonies.com. Igama linokuzoba ngaphandle kweNew York okanye iVeki yeFashoni yaseParis (uRachel i-WHO ?). Kodwa ukugxila kwakhe kubayili abaphakathi kwinqanaba elifana noKate Spade, iTory Burch, iTopshop kunye noMilly bahlangana nabafundi kwiindawo ezibalekayo kwaye kulindeleke ukuba bamfumane ngaphezulu kwe- $ 960,000 kulo nyaka kwiinkqubo zokudibana zodwa, ngokwe-arhente yolawulo lwedijithali RewardStyle . (Inkqubo yokudibana ibandakanya ukubhala iiposti ezixhasiweyo okanye ukunxibelelana nemveliso yomthengisi, ethi ibhlog yakhe isikwe nanini na xa umntu ecofa okanye ethenga.) Kwaye elo nani alithathi buhlakani bobuhlakani beParcell noJ. Crew noTRESemmé, Ngokuqinisekileyo thumela umvuzo wakhe ngaphezulu kwe- $ 1 yezigidi.
Ngoku, ndenzelwe abantu abasebenza nzima kwaye bahlawulwa ngento abayenzayo. Kodwa kwimeko yezi blogger, ndicinga ukuba bahlawulwa ngokungaphaya ngokwenza into eninzi. Ndiya kuthetha, nzulu. Amashumi amane amawaka eedola ukubonisa kwindawo yokuvula ivenkile okanye ukuhlala ngaphambili kumboniso wefashoni (apho sele bengeniswe khona, zonke iindleko zihlawulwe, kwaye babekwa kwihotele yeenkwenkwezi ezintlanu ngumyili othile ongene nzulu)? Konke ukuze bathathe iifoto ezimbalwa, eziza kuhamba kunye nomxholo obhaliweyo ngokungxama-okanye, kwezinye iimeko, uluhlu oluneenkcukacha lweekhredithi zemveliso ukuze ababukeli baphinde ukujonga imbonakalo yabo ngokucofa iqhosha (ka- ching !).
Kwaye kulapho ke umba wam ophambili uninzi lwezi blogger zemali enkulu: Akukho nto apho. Nangona kusoloko kubhekiswa kubo njengababoneleli bemixholo okanye abachaphazeli, ekuphela komxholo ababonelelayo abanasiphelo, iifoto zabo ezingahlelwanga kakuhle kwizambatho abangakhange bazihlawule-okanye ukuba bahlawulwa ukunxiba nokubhala. Kwaye ekuphela kwempembelelo abanayo kukwenza abanye bavule iipaji zabo kwaye bathenge izinto ezingakumbi abangazidingiyo ngemali abangakwaziyo ukuyichitha. Isitayela sesitrato sasidla ngokuba luhlobo lwentetho yobuqu-kunye neebhlogger ezazisetyenziselwa ukubhala malunga nezinto abazithandayo ngokwenene, kodwa kwezi ntsuku kuninzi malunga nomgca ongezantsi. Vela ubungqina kuzo zonke iifashoni ze-OTT ezihamba ngapha nangapha kwiLincoln Centre Plaza ngexesha le-NYFW, zizenza ngathi zijonga iifowuni zazo ngelixa zinethemba lokuba umntu-nabani na-uya kucela ukuthatha ifoto yakhe (kuba xa ufotwa ngakumbi uyaziwa ngcono kwaye owaziwa ngcono uba yimali eninzi onokuyenza kwibhlog yakho). Kwanele ukwenza ukuba ufune ukuthatha I-Orenji nguMnyama oMtsha Ukulahla isitayile kwibhegi yakho ye-Birkin, uyilayite ngomlilo kwaye uyishiye emnyango kaScott Schuman noGarance Doré, isibini sabathathi-zithombe abaye baba ngoovulindlela kuyo yonke indlela yesitrato yokuhamba emva.
Kudala ndisebenza kupapasho lwefashoni, ndiqale ikhondo lam kwimagazini iMademoiselle engasasebenziyo ngoku. Ndasungula ibhlog yam yefashoni, eyokwazisa ngeFashoni, ngo-2007, malunga nelo xesha i-Sartorialist yayiqala, nangona bendihlala ndingavumelani nomqondo we-selfie-ndikhetha ukunika ingxelo ngeendaba kunokuba ndenze ngathi ziindaba-kwaye bendisoloko ndala intengiso njengoko i-TFI yenzelwe ukuba ibe ngumsebenzi wothando, kwaye andikaze ndifune ukubonwa kwiimpembelelo zangaphandle.
Ngoku, andicebisi ukuba ii-blogger zefashoni akufuneki zenze imali kwiibhloko zazo ukuba zikhetha njalo. Kodwa ngaphezulu kancinci (yenza oko Okuninzi ngaphezulu) elubala re: zonke iimpahla zasimahla kunye nohambo kunye neziganeko abathi bayazithanda, bathanda, uthando luya kuhamba indlela ende ekomelezeni ukuthembeka kwabo. Ngapha koko, kanye umbono wokunyaniseka kokuhlela ubonakala ngathi uhambe ngendlela yeDodo Bird-okanye uDiana Vreeland-ngakumbi apho iibhloko zeblogi zichaphazelekayo.
Ewe, iimagazini zefashoni (ezishicilelweyo okanye ezisekwe kwiwebhu) ngokucacileyo zixhomekeke kwingeniso yentengiso ukuze zisinde, kodwa zikwabonelela ngomxholo-okwenyani, umxholo oqiqisisiweyo-uphandiwe ngobuchule, wabhalwa, wafotwa, waqwalaselwa kwaye waveliswa. Ngelixa ndiqhwabela izandla ubuchule be-Intanethi bokulinganisa inkundla yokudlala kunye nokwenza intando yesininzi kwihlabathi le-super-snooty, kuyandikhupha ukuba uninzi lweebhlog zibonakala ngathi zikhathalele kuphela ngokuzinyusa kunye nokufumana imali eninzi kangangoko banako ngokukhawuleza, ukubenza babe ziindawo zokuthengisa ngakumbi kunabalaseli bokwenene bencasa kunye nesitayile.
Okumangalisayo kukuba, xa ndakhangela ngale nto kuFacebook, ndeva ngesiqingatha sabayili abayili abaziwayo ababekwa ngokulinganayo kwintengiso engapheliyo yeebhlogi zefashoni. Ndikhumbula ndibuza abantu endisebenza nabo kunye nabahlobo okokuqala kwiminyaka eliqela eyadlulayo malunga neebhlogi: ngoobani aba bantu, zithini iziqinisekiso zabo kwaye kutheni le nto kukho umntu onika into abaza kuyithetha? Utshilo uLibertine umyili uJohnson Hartig. Akukho mntu undinikileyo impendulo eyonelisayo okwangoku.
U-Lauren David Peden ngowayesakuba nguMlawuli weKopi yeVogue kunye nombhali / umhleli omsebenzi wakhe uvele kwiThe New York Times, Glamor, Elle, Dossier naseVogue.com UK.
