Ukubaleka ngokugqibeleleyo-ukusuka-kwi-NYC kuhambo lwendlela

NGOLWESIHLANU IZIHLOKO ZOBUSUKU

Imozulu izakuba yingxaki. Iqale ukutshiza kungekudala emva kokuba siphumile eManhattan kwaye sanda mandundu ngelixesha sisuka eBronx River Parkway. My Travel Companion (TC) kwaye ngamanye amaxesha u-navigator ucofe i-iPhone yakhe, ezama ukusalathisa esiya ezantsi edolophini iBronxville, apho besiza kuthi xhaxhe kuRoute 22, eyona ndlela inde kakhulu emantla-mzantsi eNew York kunye nomgaqo wethu ophambili ngempelaveki.

Kithina, le yayiyi-terra incognita. Kwaye nangona sasixelelwe ukuba sizokufumana ubumnandi-loo Ndlela 22 yayiyindlela enkulu, esusela kwiindawo eziphezulu zeSixeko saseNew York yonke indlela eya eCanada, ejikeleza amadlelo, iilali ezincinci kunye neefama ezityisa iinkomo -Okokuqala kwakufuneka sihambe ubusuku bonke ngaphandle kokuya emanzini.

Ngombulelo, abantu abalungileyo kwi-BMW bakhohliswa ukuba basithembe ngenye yeemoto ezintle ezivela kwizithuthi zabo. Ngokukodwa, besikhathalela umntla kwi-535d sedan. Xa kuthelekiswa neVolvo eneminyaka eli-15 ubudala esasisandula ukuyilahla, emva kokuba injini yayo isweleke okwesibini, iBimmer khange ibonakale ngathi yimoto njengekamva lokuhamba, ulusu oluhamba ngesikhumba. Kwisifundo sam esifutshane nesithuthi, ndangena kancinci kuwo onke amaqhosha endawanikayo — maninzi kangangokuba ndaye ndoyika ukushukuma, ngenxa yokoyika ukubetha omnye ngengozi ndikhutshwe, okanye ndinikwe umva ongafanelekanga — kodwa ndiye ndafunda malunga Iindlela ezahlukeneyo zokuqhuba: i-Eco (ukonga amafutha), intuthuzelo (yokuhamba ngenqanawa), iMidlalo (ukukhawulezisa okungaphazanyiswanga) kunye neMidlalo yokuDibanisa (ngakumbi nangakumbi). Ngokuqhwanyaza kweliso, ndaqinisekiswa ukuba imoto ibiligorha lonke. Okulusizi kukuba, ngobusuku bethu bokuqala bokuqhuba, ndandi madolw 'anzima xa sidlula kwiintliziyo ezibiyelweyo zase-Eastchester, eScarsdale naseWhite Plains.

Ngexesha esabetha ngalo iLake Kensico, isixeko sasisele sidambile, kwaye indlela engu-22 yayiwele ebumnyameni,Imvula yaphinda yathathisa, yaba yimvula efanelekileyo. Kwisiqingatha sokusebeza, umthandazo wesiqingatha, u-TC wazibuza malunga nokukhuseleka kwemoto-ngaba bendixelelwe nantoni na malunga nezo? Ndamkhomba kwi-sheet sheet esasinikwe yona. Owu, jonga, utshilo, engakhululekanga ncam. Iinkwenkwezi ezintlanu zokuqengqeleka.

Malunga neekhilomitha ezingama-20 ezoyikisayo kamva, sangena kwi-motel engenabuyanga eBrewster-sisaphila kodwa silambile-emva koko senza i-fave yasebusuku kakhulu, iRed Rooster Drive-In, engadibaniyo nenqanawa yaseMarcus Samuelsson yeLenox Avenue kunye neempawu ezonwabisayo zebhombu. Nangona kungekho enye into eninzi yokwenza kwiHub ye-Harlem Valley nge-11 ntambama, ekugqibeleni safumana indlela eya kwi-Bull & Barrel, umngxuma wokunkcenkceshela waseNtshona ozenzela ubhiya. Apho, sa-oda iipenti, sibhiyozela ukusinda kwethu okumanzi, kwaye salinda umntu ukuba anxile ngokwaneleyo akhwele inkunzi yenkomo.

Ukuba ufuna ukutya kwiRock Rooster, ungayi eHarlem. Yiya eHarlem Valley.

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ENDLELENI KWAKHONA

Ekuseni, isibhakabhaka sasicocekile kwaye savuka ukuze sifumanise: I-Brewster intle kakhulu! Singasasetyenziswanga luloyiko lwezikhukula ezindleleni, ekugqibeleni singaxabisa ilali encinci enamaplanga ngayo yonke into ebinokuyinika yona: izitali zamahashe, imithi yama-apile kunye nemizi emihle, emidala yamakhaya. Unyaka wonke, ungaya kwi-Orchard's Salinger kwii-donuts ezintsha kunye nezinye izinto ezibhakiweyo, okanye ukubuyela umva iimayile ezimbalwa ukuyokutya kwi-Purdy's Farmer & the Fish, indawo yokutya kwaselwandle esezingeni eliphezulu, ethi imithombo yayo ivelise kwigadi yayo esemva kwendlu.

Khange siyeke ukutya okupheleleyo de sabetha iMcKinney & Doyle, ikhefi ephezulu, ibhari kunye neebhaka kwindawo yedolophu iPawling. Imenyu yebrunch ine-indulgent, ukusuka kwi-strawberry cream itshizi yama-pancake ukuya kwi-asparagus omelets ngobukhulu kwi-cappuccinos ekhonjwe ngezitya zeminwe zesinamon, i-shavings emhlophe yetshokholethi kunye neembotyi ze-espresso ezigqunywe yitshokholethi. Cappuccino porn kwiMcKinney naseDoyle.

Emva kokutya ibhotolo eyaneleyo kunye neswekile ukuqinisa amathumbu ethu, sibuyele endleleni, sihamba ngenqanawa edlulileyo kuJohn Deeres. Phakathi kweedolophu, phakathi kwamagophe e-Route 22 kunye nekhaphethi eluhlaza eluhlaza yasemaphandleni, ethi ngamanye amaxesha ilingane namadlelo amahashe, inzolo ethile yaqala ukubamba. Okwangoku, i-pedal yegesi yayiyinkanuko yesono kwaye ndanyanzelisa ukubetha wonke umama webhola ekhatywayo waseDutchess kwimigca eqala ukukhanya, ukuya kwi-TC's clucking capplection.

Ezinye iikhilomitha ezingama-30 ukuya phambili, simise esitratweni eMillerton saza sajonga iqhosha laso lokurhuqa, sazula sidlula kwindawo yokutyela ehlaziyiweyo ye-tapas (52 Main), indlu encinci yemovie (i-Moviehouse) kunye ne-Railroad Plaza, apho intengiso yamafama ibanjwa qho ngeMigqibelo ehlotyeni. Inkampani yeti yeeHarney & Sons, enendawo ekuhlala kuyo iSoho, ikwindawo eseMillerton. Ndakhe ndasebenza kwivenkile yekofu kunye neyeti, andikwazi ukuphuma edolophini ngaphambi kokuncamathisa impumlo yam kwiitoti ezimbalwa zeti ephungwayo kunye nokuthenga ii-ounces ezimbini zePu-erh endala.

Konke ukutya kunye nokuthimla kwaqala ukuthatha umthwalo, nangona kunjalo. Ngelixa sihamba ngenqanawa ukuya kwiNdlela 22, iinkophe ze-TC zazikwisiqingatha semasti. Ukozela wabonisa zonke izitendi zefama ezichaze indlela ngaphambi kokunqwala. Kulapho kanye ndigqibe kwelokuba ndifumanise ukuba le sedan yexesha elizayo inokwenza ntoni. Ukutshintsha phakathi kweendlela zeMidlalo kunye neMidlalo, ndivavanye umgaqo-siseko wamatayara, hayi kangako ukuwolana njengokujika ngokungakhathali, ndibheka ecaleni komgca weziko elinemigca wendlela yeendlela ezimbini ukuze kudlule iSubarus kunye neelori ezinokuncamathela sithe izinto ezinje ngeNja yam yiMensch kwaye andiyithembi iMEDIYA YENKCUKACHA, de ekugqibeleni sayeka ukuyeka, malunga neekhilomitha ezili-150 kamva, emva kokusika entshona ngaseLake George.

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I-USA! I-USA!

Okokuqala kwavulwa ngo-1883, i-Sagamore, ihotele kunye neholide, ihleli kwisiqithi sabucala kude nonxweme olusentshona lweLake George, eBolton Landing. Sichithe okuninzi kwiiyure ezingama-24 ezidlulileyo ngaphakathi kumatshini wentsimbi, sikulungele ukuphanda imihlaba. I-TC yaphosa incwadana kwaye saxoxa-sobonana ngento ekufuneka siyenzile kuqala.

Ukuthambisa? Hayi!

Amahashehashe? Hayi!

Ukuqubha! Ewe, ngokuqinisekileyo uyadada.

Sigqibile, sahamba sayokuhamba indledlana yendalo, indlela emfutshane, enamazinyo eqhuba umlomo welibi, phantsi komthi womthi wompayina.Ukuhamba ngeenqanawa ngeendlela zethu zeComfort, sikhawuleze safumanisa uthotho lwemisebenzi yangaphandle, kubandakanya umlilo wamlilo oqhubekayo, iinkundla ezahlukeneyo (ibhola yomnyazi, ibhola yevoli kunye nentenetya) kunye nendawo yokuzivocavoca ehlathini, apho samisa khona ukuze sihlale ujingi. Xa ndathi i-swing yam iya phezulu, ngethemba lokukhuthaza ukhuphiswano oluncinci, i-TC indixelele ngokunyanisekileyo, andifuni ukuba izinto ziphume kulawulo. Ukujonga iLake George kunye namachibi amabini ehotele avela kumgangatho wesithathu weSagamore.

Ngokubhekiselele kwihotele efanelekileyo, yahlaziywa ngokutsha engazange igqitywe kude kube yintwasahlobo yokugqibela. Ngaphambi koko, kwakungaqhelekanga, ndeva undwendwe olunye luxelela umhlobo walo. Ngoku, indawo yokuhlala kunye neendawo ezingqongileyo, ezihamba kakhulu e-Americana, zivakalelwa, ngaphezu kwayo nayiphi na into, njengendawo yokuhlala yasebusika ehlotyeni-efanelekileyo, kuba ipropathi ihlala ivuliwe unyaka wonke.

Isidlo sangokuhlwa, besisitya kwiClub Grill Steakhouse, ebekwe kwindawo yokuqala yegalufa leholide. Amagqabantshintshi avela kwisidlo atsalelwa ngqo kwincwadi yokudlala yokuthand 'izwe kwaye yaquka ipeki yehockey egcotyiweyo yetshizi yebhokhwe eza nesaladi ye-beet (uhlobo olufana nentonga ekhulile ye-mozzarella), i-jumbo white prawns emhlophe (njengenyama njenge-lobster), inyama yenkomo ithenda kunye, kunye nedessert, i-ayisikrimu eyenziweyo eyenziwe ukuba ndifune ukucula: i-USA! I-USA!

Kwaye ichibi lalilelona lalinomtsalane wokwenene.

Kwangoko ngala mini, xa sasihleli ebhafini eshushu, ndajonga eLake George kunye neentaba ezingqonge yona, njengezihlalo zeholo yemidlalo. Amanzi asoloko elala ngomlingo, nokuba kukuphinda-phinda ukucamngca kwamaza olwandle akhotha elunxwemeni okanye uthuli oluphuma kuzolile olupheleleyo lwedike, gcina i-kayak ngamaxesha athile okanye iphenyane elinenjini. Ngeglasi yeSonoma County cab esesandleni, ndacinga ke malunga nendlela yohambo lwendlela olunika ngayo imvakalelo yokuhamba rhoqo kunye ne-stasis engaguqukiyo: awusoze uhambe kodwa uhlala kwindawo entsha. Kwaye njani, ngandlela thile, kukungafani kobomi esixekweni, apho uhlala ushukuma kodwa ungaze endaweni ethile entsha. Apho, kuloo bhafu ishushu, ekugqibeleni sasigqibelele-ngokugqibeleleyo. Igumbi lokutyela e-Inn e-Hudson. (Umfanekiso nguPeter Aaron)

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ROCK, ROCK, ROCK ' N 'UMQULU WOKUGQIBELA

Ukuhamba kwisitalato iWarren, eyona ndawo iphambili yorhwebo ka-Hudson, omnye uya kuxolelwa ngokungaphosisi umtya weevenkile zoyilo, iigalari zobugcisa, iindawo zokutyela ezithengisa ukutya kunye neevenkile zevenkile zokuvuna (ezigcina yonke into ukusuka kwizitulo zamaphiko evelvet ukuya kwizibane zamahashe ezilingana nobomi) 'I-punk show ye-70s kwi-CBGB-kwaye ikwangumbono ofanayo we-DIY oqhuba le dolophu incinci, iiyure ezimbini kumantla esiXeko saseNew York.

Mhlawumbi yiloo nto abaninzi ababesakuba ngamatye beziva besekhaya apha, kule lali yangaphambili ye-whaling ethe yasokola ukubola kumzi mveliso ngaphambi kokutyala imbewu yokuvuselelwa kwayo njengendawo yakudala. Kubalwa phakathi kwabamelwane bakaHudson nguTommy Stinson weGuns N 'Roses, uRasputina's Melora Creager kunye noMelissa Auf der Maur, owayedlala ibass kunye neHole kunye neSmashing Pumpkins kwaye ngoku ungumnini kwaye uqhuba iBasilica Hudson, umsitho kunye nendawo yokusebenza kwinto eyayifektri yeglu. . Nditsho nababesihambele ngeCawa ngokuhlwa, uDini Lamont kunye noWindle Davis, babengamalungu engubo yasebuRhawini. Esi sisibane samahashe.

Oku bekusoloko kuyeyona ndawo ibalaseleyo e-Hudson, utshilo umnumzana uDavis, njengoko ebekhokela i-TC kunye nam kukhenketho lwe-Inn e-Hudson, indawo yabo yokulala kunye nesidlo sakusasa esingenakulindeleka kwindlu endala e-Allen Street. Ngaphambili yayiyikhaya labakhulileyo labalupheleyo, indlu yendlu enkulu yayifuna ukulungiswa kakhulu xa amadoda aqala ukungena, phantse ishumi leminyaka elidlulileyo. Ngoku ibonakala rhoqo kwiincwadi zoyilo kunye neemagazini zoyilo. Kwaye ngesizathu esivakalayo: indawo iguqulwe yaza yaba kukuxinana kwezinto ezithandabuzekayo, umzi-mveliso wokuchasa. Ukungena kumagumbi, akhuselwe ngapha nangapha yi-Mohawked border terrier, umntu unyanzelekile ukuba athathe zonke i-tchotchke kwaye afunde zonke iincwadi zencwadi ezishelifini zamathala eencwadi, ezisusela Intsangu Botany ukuya UCarrie kwi IBHAYIBHILE engcele .

Emuva kwisitalato iWarren, bekukho okungakumbi ekufuneka sikuphonononge emva kokuba sihleli eSwoon Kitchenbar for a snack midday of crispy artichokes, which made me reconsider whether I ever wanted to return to NYC. Abantu bendawo abathanda ukutya nabo bafunga uDaba, Helsinki Hudson (indawo yokutyela kunye nendawo yomculo) kunye noP. Ibha yewayini. Ngeeyure zokubulala, sazulazula sangena kwiHurson Wine Merchants, eyayiqeshwe nguMichael Albin — iqela lakhe elidala, iBeme Seed, lahamba noo Butthole Surfers kunye no Sonic Youth — saza sathetha nevenkile zeewheeks ezaluncedo, ezathi zasijika I-syrah ephezulu yomhlaba evela eHervé Souhaut. Kwisiqingatha seNyanga, ibha yokuntywila ngasemlanjeni, sadubula imidlalo embalwa yedama. Kwaye emva koko: ixesha lesidlo sangokuhlwa.

Oko kwavulwa ngoMeyi ophelileyo, i-ode kaZak Pelaccio kuzo zonke izinto zelizwe, Intlanzi kunye noMdlalo, ibiyindawo yokugcina engenakwenzeka e-Hudson. Njengoko sasilinde itafile yethu, u-bartender Kat Dunn waxuba i-TC iBlue Gin martini, ngelixa ndandine-white-and-dark-rum daiquiri. Bakuba behleli phantsi, bekungasekho zigqibo, kuba bonke abathengi kufuneka babe nokutya okungcamlweyo-kobu busuku, izifundo ezisixhenxe, kunye nesibhozo sokukhetha: itshizi.

Ngaphandle kwamarhe okuba uMnu. Pelaccio unikezele ngeendlela zakhe ezinamanqatha ngenxa yokuhamba kancinci, ndifumene ukutya kutyebile, oko kukuthi akukho nto ibimileyo, njenge-asparagus eneqanda ledada, ibhotolo emdaka kunye ne-rhubarb kimchi kunye nentlanzi yengcuka, wakhonza kunye ne-fish congee kunye ne-kale kimchi. (Yintoni? Dude uyayithanda ikimchi yakhe.) Okwangoku, isidlo esinjengalesi asisiyokutya ebusuku. Ayikuko nokuba intliziyo ityhafileyo. Okanye isipaji: imenyu yokungcamla iqhuba i-75 yeedola kumntu ngamnye, kunye neziselo.

Kuthi, nangona kunjalo, esi yayisisiganeko esikhethekileyo. Ayisiyiyo kuphela i-TC kwaye bendonwabela impelaveki ihambile, kodwa ngosuku olulandelayo yayisisikhumbuzo seminyaka emibini sitshatile. Kwigumbi lokutyela eligudle i-taxidermy kwaye likhanyiswe kukukhanya kwamakhandlela, sawela kwi-vibe, ethi i-TC ichaze njengendawo yokuhlala yanamhlanje kunye ne-chic entle, evumela i-nostalgia ukuba ibambe.

Ngaphezulu kwekhosi yokugqibela yedessert, umzekelo, i-TC yabelana ngebali ukusukela kumhla wethu womtshato malunga nendlela umama wakhe athe wafundisa ngayo ingcebiso yothando ngomzuzu wokugqibela, efihliwe njengetsheki. Eso siluleko: I-TC kufuneka ijonge iqabane lakhe elinokubakho (mna) kwaye ilunge ukuba ndandingubani ngala mhla. Ndingatshintsha kwaye ndiguquke, ngokuqinisekileyo, kodwa ebengenakungena nakuphi na okulindelweyo. Uye wathi bekungekabi late ukubuyela umva, u-TC undixelele.

Ngombulelo, akazange abuye umva. Kodwa ndacinga ngeli bali njengoko sibaleka ngentsasa elandelayo. Ukujonga ngasemva yayingu-Hudson, idolophu eguqukayo. Phambili, indlela evulekileyo. Ndisetyisa iindlela ezahlukeneyo ze-kimchi, ndandiqhuba kwimowudi yezemidlalo yonke indlela egodukayo.