UThom Browne. (Ifoto ngu-Edward James / WireImage)
Ukuphawula ngengubo yabasetyhini kunye nobude besiketibekusoloko kungundaba-mlonyeni ngefashoni ukusukela oko uluntu lubeka ingqondo yalo kulo msebenzi wokufihla. Kodwa kutshanje, ukuguquguquka kubude beebhulukhwe zamadoda kubangele ukuphakamisa amashiya kunye nentloko ukukrwela. I-skirt ubude be-milenium yokugqibela Le ntwasahlobo eyona bhulukhwe ifashoni igqibezela inani leesentimitha ngaphezulu kweqatha lobudoda, Ukuthumela abanye abantu kwi-tailspin ye-sartorial engenamava ukusukela oko umdlali webhola ekhatywayo uDavid Beckham wayenxibe isarong (igama elithandekayo lesiketi esirhangqileyo) ngo-1998.
Ininzi yale nto ingabekwa emnyango womqambi uThom Browne, indoda enxibe ibhulukhwe nabuphi na ubude ngaphandle kwexesha elide. UThom Browne wenze ibhulukhwe emfutshane kakhulu ukuba ayityikitye kule minyaka idlulileyo kwaye isebenzela umntu othile, uBrian Boye, umlawuli wefashoni Impilo Yamadoda uxelele uMqwalaseli . Umnumzana Browne's, ibhlukhwe enqunqiweyo ngoku ihluziwe yangena kwifashoni yamadoda. Ukugcina ibhulukhwe yakho kwicala lasekunene lale nto inokuhlekwa ngumhlekisi, ngokuka Mnu Boye, ubuqili kukuqinisekisa ukuba abanyuki nakuphi na okuphezulu kunaphakathi kwe-shin. Kungcono ukuba bawe malunga ne-intshi ngaphezulu kweqatha, wacebisa. Olu luvo ekwabelwana ngalo nguRyan Thompson, umseki-mbumbulu wesinxibo sempahla yamadoda, Isitayile seNgxoxo. Nawuphi na omfutshane kwaye uya kujongeka ngathi sowuza kuhamba ngento engathandekiyo, wongeze njengesilumkiso esingxamisekileyo. Kwakhona, iibhulukhwe ezinqunqiweyo akufuneki zibhidaniswe nebhulukhwe emfutshane yaseBermuda, amathole kufuneka agqunywe kakuhle ngengubo ukuze afaneleke ukuba ‘yibhulukhwe.’ 
Ibhulukhwe yakwaJunya Watanabe. (Ifoto nguCatwalking / Getty Izithombe)
Kodwa uthini malunga nenyama engaphantsi kwencasa ebonakalisiweyo yemilenze engezantsi enoboya? Nxiba eso siqingatha sisezantsi esisezantsi siya kuvavanya ixabiso lobuhle bezihlangu eziqhelekileyo kumngxunya. Okonwabisayo ngokwaneleyo, kukudressa, izihlangu ezinqamlezileyo zisebenza kakuhle ngebhulukhwe emfutshane. IiBrogues, iimonki eziphindwe kabini kunye ne-oxford zonke ziyahamba, utshilo uMnu Boye, esongeza ukuba i-suede iibhutsi zasentlango kunye neziteki ezimhlophe zezona zikhetho zibalaseleyo kwizitayile ze-chino ezivunyiweyo. Into endiyithandayo kweli hlotyana yeyokutya okutyibilikayo okanye izihlangu ezibotshiweyo zemonki xa zisenza isiphambuka kwicala elicikizekileyo, ucebise uMnu.Thompson, ngelixa ii-suede derbies okanye i-lo-fi sneakers zilungile kwisiphumo esithe kratya. 
Ibhulukhwe yamabala. (Ifoto nguKirstin Sinclair / Getty Izithombe)
Mnu. Boye, iikawusi azikho-hayi ngolu jongo. U-Luke Sweeney, ovela e-London-based tailors, u-Thom Sweeney akakwazanga ukuvumelana ngakumbi. Olu hlobo lubonakala lungcono ngaphandle kobuninzi kunye neesokisi ezininzi, uxelele uMbonisi.
Ngawaphi amagqabi, ewe, owona mbuzo ubaluleke kakhulu ukusikwa nokunikezelwa kweebhulukhwe ezinqunyiweyo. Kum, ububanzi bebhulukhwe bubalulekile nje ngobude xa unxibe le ndlela yebhulukhwe, utshilo uMnu Sweeney. Ukuba uhlala unxibe iibhulukhwe ezisikiweyo ezilumkileyo, lumka, azizithambisi ezi nkangeleko zimfutshane. Ububanzi kufuneka bube mxinwa kwibhrukhwe emfutshane ukuze ibonakale ilungile, wongeze watsho. 
Ibhulukhwe ecoliweyo nguBrunello Cucinelli. (Ifoto ngu-Yves Forestier / imifanekiso kaFetty ngeSimbo se-Uz yeVeki ye-2013)
Ilebheli yase-Italiya uBrunello Cucinelli, umfuziselo waseSweden uphawu lwamabala amabala kunye nomyili waseJapan uJunya Watanabe bonke bazise ibhulukhwe esikiwe ukuba iphele kakuhle ngaphezu kweqatha ngethepu ethambileyo ezantsi. Umnumzana Watanabe, ii-flip-flops ezibuyisiweyo yayizihlangu ezikhethiweyo kwikati yakhe. Umceli mngeni ophambili ngebhulukhwe emfutshane ifika xa umntu oyinxibileyo ehleli phantsi. Gcina ukhumbula, izitayile ezinqunqiwe ezinde zithintela umngxuma webhulukhwe emfutshane ekhwele ukuya, okanye nkqu- isilumkiso esibomvu ngaphezulu kwamadolo. Ngokwenyani le yindawo yemigodi, walumkisa uMnu. Thompson.
Ewe kunjalo, kuninzi lwethu, i-taper cut chino yeyona ndlela ibalaseleyo yokujonga okufutshane / okude. Ziyakwazi ukusongelwa kubude obugqibeleleyo kwaye aziyi kubuya zibuyele phantsi (ukuba nje zenziwe kwisisindo esinzima somqhaphu) Izitayile zeTapered chino nguGap, iPolo Ralph Lauren kunye neGant zisebenza ngokukodwa. Kwaye ukuba iintlobo zeenkangeleko ozibonileyo kumgaqo weenqwelo moya weThom Browne zanele ukwenza ukuba ubaleke, ke ukugcina olu jongo kwicala eliqhelekileyo lolona khetho lukhuselekileyo. Emva kwayo yonke loo nto, ngewaba usonge ii-chinos zakho ukunqanda ukuziphambuka njengoko unyathela ngobunono kwisikhephe sakho ukuya elunxwemeni. Qiniseka nje ukuba iikawusi zakho zikhuselekile kwingxowa yakho yeethote. Kwaye eyona nto ilunge kakhulu, xa imeko ikwezitayile ezinde entwasahlobo elandelayo: zisongele umva kwakhona.
