UHelmut Newton.Ingqokelela yeRon Galella ngokusebenzisa imifanekiso kaGetty Ebizwa ngokuba ngukumkani wekink, kuyamangalisa ukuba uxwebhu lokuqala olusebenzayo oluhlola umsebenzi womfoti owaziwayo uHelmut Newton, owasweleka ngo-2004, wakhululwa kuphela kwiveki ephelileyo. UHelmut Newton: Ababi nabahle ngu-Gero von Boehm, umhlobo osenyongweni ka-Newton, ukhupha indoda engemva kokufota kwefashoni okunempikiswano, ebeya kuba yi-100 kulo nyaka. Ngoku kusasaza ngeQonga leeFilimu kunye neKino Marquee , olu xwebhu lubandakanya udliwanondlebe oluvela kwezinye zezifundo zakhe azithandayo njengoGrace Jones, uClaudia Schiffer kunye no-Isabella Rossellini, kunye no-Anna Wintour kunye nenkosikazi yakhe kunye neqabane lakhe lokuyila uJune Newton (naye umfoti, owabonisa umsebenzi wakhe phantsi kwegama elinguAlice Springs)
Umntu ophikisanayo othatha iifoto ezikhuthaza ubukrakra wabizwa gwenxa ngabathile kwaye uxhobisa abanye, ifilimu bubungqina bokukwazi kwakhe ukuba sisidenge. Ngelixa ngokungathandabuzekiyo ephatha abantu ababhinqileyo abafota njengezinto zesondo ngokujonga kwendoda kunye nokwandiswa kombono we-machismo, ifilimu iphonononga amandla akhe okudala ingxoxo esidlangalaleni malunga namandla, inkanuko yesini kunye nokuziphatha ngokwesini. Nantsi into esifundise yona malunga nenye yeenkosi zenkulungwane ye-20 yokufota.
Iingcebiso zakhe zomsebenzi weJamani yamaNazi
NjengomJuda waseJamani owabalekela eSingapore emva koko waya e-Australia ngo-1938, siva umfanekiso ogciniweyo kaNewton ngokwakhe evuma impembelelo yomsebenzi wakhe ekukhuleni malunga nenkohliso. Eyona mpembelelo yakhe inkulu yayinguLeni Riefenstahl, umlawuli waseJamani waqesha ukuba enze ipropaganda yamaNazi enesitayile emhlophe, e-blonde, nakwimidlalo yamaJamani. Akunzima ukuzithelekisa nomsebenzi omhlophe ubukhulu becala ovela eNewton, njengoRiefenstahl, ongazange amdubule umntu owayengekho mhle ngokwesiko ngelo xesha. Nangona ifilimu ichaphazela oku kwinqanaba eliphakathi, inika umbono ofunekayo kwindlela umsebenzi wakhe ohlola ngayo amandla. Kusishiya sikhulisa ezethu izinto zonxibelelwano malunga nonxibelelwano phakathi kobuhle kunye nogonyamelo emsebenzini wakhe, ngokusebenzisa ilensi yokulwa nefuthe lobuhle elalisetyenziselwa ukucinezela uNewton kunye nosapho.
Wayephumelela kwiProtocateur
Kwifilimu, u-Isabella Rossellini umbonisa ukuba unoxanduva lokuzisa impikiswano kunye nengxoxo kwifashoni nakwimifanekiso yokuhlela. Ukuhambisa uhlalutyo lwenkcubeko kwihlabathi lefashoni, uGrace Jones uphawula kudliwanondlebe ukuba wayephambene kancinane, kodwa nam kunjalo. Ngelixa uNewton ezenzela igama ngokujonga imeko yabasetyhini, umsebenzi wakhe wawusoloko ugxekwa. Ucebisa ukuba ukonwabele kakhulu. U-Anna Wintour uphawula ukuba wayehlala ethanda ukuva ingxelo evela kubafundi iileta, okona kwakukubi ngcono, besithi umsebenzi wakhe ungaphezulu kokumelwa yinkcubeko ye-macho, endaweni yoko wayeyithanda ingxoxo-mpikiswano malunga nendlela awabonisa ngayo abantu basetyhini. Kwelinye icala, siva umbhali waseMelika kunye nomzabalazo uSusan Sontag embiza njenge-misogynist kwikhamera, athi: Ndiyabathanda abantu basetyhini. 
UHelmut Newton ngomnye wemisebenzi yakhe.Scherhaufer / ullstein umfanekiso nge-Getty Izithombe
Kwakukho uqhawuko phakathi koMsebenzi kunye neNdoda
Esinye sezihloko ezinomdla ngakumbi eziphononongwa yifilimu kukucingelwa okwenziweyo malunga noHelmut ngenxa yomsebenzi wakhe. Ngelixa ukufota kwakhe kwakususelwe kwimfesane yamadoda kwaye kuhlala kukho ubundlobongela, siva imodeli emva komzekelo inika ubungqina kuye ukuba unembeko yokusebenza naye, nangona ecela iimodeli zamadoda ukuba zibambe iesile labo kwikhamera. Ngelixa uGrace Jones esithi umsebenzi wakhe naye zange waziva enobuhlanga, xa ekhumbula ibali kwiintsuku zakhe zokuqala zokumodareyitha noNewton, kuyacaca ukuba umfoti wayeza kwiimodeli egxininisa kwimizimba yabo: Wayeyithanda imilenze yam, kwaye inene ondenze ndabathanda. Waye endicela ukuba ndize rhoqo kukhuphiswano. Ngalo lonke ixesha ndifikayo, wandixelela, 'Yinyani: ndilibele ukuba awunawo ama-boobs.' Ngaphandle kwamaxesha afanelekileyo, kwifilimu uNewton ufumana impikiswano encinci kunomsebenzi wakhe buqu, echukumisa uluvo lokuba umntu angadala, umsebenzi onengxaki kwabaninzi, ngaphandle kwabo babandakanyekayo kwinkqubo beziva bengahlonitshwa (ngokodliwanondlebe nefilimu).
Umsebenzi kaNewton ngekhe Aguge kakuhle namhlanje
Ukufota kwakhe ngekhe kwenzeke kwaphela namhlanje, utshilo umlawuli von Boehm. Yayiyinguquko ngelo xesha: inguquko yayifuneka ngenene kuba kwakukho uRichard Avedon kunye no-Irving Penn kodwa yayithandeka nje. Ngelixa umboniso bhanyabhanya uveza umsebenzi kaNewton njengento eyayihlaziya imfashini yefashoni kwiminyaka yoo-60 kunye neye-70, kukwabonakala ukuba akukho mfuneko yolu phononongo lunye lwanamhlanje. U-Anna Wintour uchaze abafazi bakaHelmut njengabanamandla, kodwa nanjengokuba bephantse babe blonde kwaye babe nde. Ngelixa ubukele, kucacile ukuba umsebenzi wakhe wawusisipili kuluntu nakwishishini lefashoni eliguqukileyo kwaye, ke, imifanekiso yakhe emhlophe ehlanjiweyo yemigangatho yobuhle eqhelekileyo kuba ababhinqileyo ababandakanyeki kangako namhlanje njengoko babonwa njengangoku. Oku, kunye nomsebenzi wakhe wokujonga inkcubeko yamehlo echukumisa imiphetho yothando kunye nokuzonda abantu basetyhini, yenza ukuba ifilimu ibe kukuphononongwa okunomdla komzuzu othile obalulekileyo ekufotweni. Ngelixa ubukele, kukho ukuqonda kwamazwi amaninzi awayengashiywanga ngaphandle komsebenzi wakhe kuphela kodwa ekwakushiywe ngaphandle kwincoko yemveliso yefashoni ebanzi ngelo xesha nanamhlanje: I-BIPOC, amazwi endoda, kunye nokumelwa kwemizimba enamandla ubungakanani 0.
