Eyona Indlela Yokuphila Ukukhupha iFashoni kwiZiko leCostume eMet

Ukukhupha iFashoni kwiZiko leCostume eMet

Yeyiphi Imovie Ukubona?
 
Izambatho ziboniswa kwi-Met.Ngesiqhelo seMetropolitan Museum of Art



Ngumbuzo omdala-ngaba ifashoni bubugcisa?Yiloo nto ke i-Costume Institute eseMet Museum emisele ukuphendula ngomboniso wayo wamva nje, Umsebenzi wobugcisa: Ukukhulula ifashoni , Ihlanganiswe kunye noMncedisi weKharityhulam uJessica Regan

Ukukhutshwa kwesihloko somboniso kuneentsingiselo ezimbini-kunokuthathwa ngokwenyani yokoqobo, kukhupha umfanekiso wabalondolozi kunye nabalondolozi abadibanisa indawo yokugcina izinto ezininzi zeCostume, bekhupha iimpahla kumangcwaba abo okulondolozwa ukuze babekwe inyambalala. Kukwasebenza nokucacisa ukuba kutheni iimpahla zibonisiwe ngaphezulu kwamaqonga afana neekreyiti, ngokungathi iimpahla zazisandula ukufika kumyuziyam.

Kodwa ukukhupha izinto kunokubhekisa kwingcinga, uluvo lwezifundo, apho kukho into ethathiweyo yahlaziywa. Kule vein, iimpahla azihlolisiswanga kwaye zivavanywe kwimeko yazo, kodwa njani kwaye kutheni iMet ifumene ezi zambatho kule minyaka ilishumi idlulileyo.

Lo mboniso uhlanganisa iingubo ezingama-50 ezimele eyona mmyuziyam ikwazileyo ukuyifumana kule minyaka ilishumi idlulileyo. Ixesha elide, iZiko lijolise ekuqokeleleni iziqwenga ezinokukunceda ekwenzeni ugcino olubanzi, lwe-encyclopedic yeyona ilungileyo kwimbali yefashoni. Kodwa, phantsi kwengqesho kaHarold Koda, eso simo sengqondo satshintshela ekufumaneni iimpahla ezazifana nemisebenzi yobugcisa, imisebenzi yobugcisa, ukuba uyathanda, ezihambelana neVan Gogh's kunye neDegas 'efumaneka kwenye indawo kumyuziyam. Isinxibo sebhola sikaViktor noRolf.Ngesiqhelo seMetropolitan Museum of Art








Esi sigqibo sibonisa injongo yethu ebanzi yokubonisa isinxibo njengobugcisa obuphilayo obuguqula imbali kwaye buba yinxalenye yenkqubo yezembali, ucacisile u-Andrew Bolton, umphathi we-Costume Institute.

Phambi kokuba ungene kulo mboniso, emazantsi ezinyuko ezibanzi, kumi ingubo yokuwa / yeHlabathi ka-2015 kaVictor & Rolf, egxunyekwe kwisakhelo somthi esakhiwe. Oko kunxiba bekuyinxalenye yomboniso we-couture obuze lo mbuzo bubugcisa befashoni ?, ngokwenza iimpahla zangasese zangempela. Njengoko umboniso uqhubela phambili, abaqulunqi bathabatha izakhelo kwiimodeli bazixhoma, njengemizobo, eludongeni. Le frock sisingeniso esifanelekileyo kumboniso obhiyozela ubumnandi kunye nemvumelwano phakathi kwefashoni kunye nobugcisa.

Umboniso uhlelwe ngokolandelelwano lwamaxesha, ngenkulungwane ye-18 ibonakaliswe ngezambatho ezimdaka e-la Française iboniswe ecaleni komdlalo omncinci, kodwa hayi kancinci, ingubo e-Anglaise. Iyaqhubeka ngenkulungwane ye-19 kunye nezinto ezintsha zikaCharles Worth, utata we-haute couture. Emva koko iyatyhubela inkulungwane yokuqala yama-20, ibonisa izinto ezintsha ezinje ngoCharles James kunye noMadeline Vionnet. Emva koko, umboniso uya usiba mdaka, ngaphandle kwengqondo yokwenyani yexesha, njengoko ingena kwiimpembelelo zoyilo lwanamhlanje. Umdwebo obomvu odlamkileyo, uCommme Des Garçons 'uRei Kawakubo uboniswa ecaleni kwempefumlelo: i-1760s bordeaux velvet pannier. Ijacket ebomvu eboyiweyo enesitimela se-chiffon ngu-John Galliano ngexesha lakhe langoku Maison Margiela iboniswa ecaleni kwengubo yamadoda eqinileyo eqinileyo ebomvu ukusuka ekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-18. Uyilo lukaJohn Galliano lweMaison Margiela.Ngesiqhelo seMetropolitan Museum of Art



Kodwa oku kudodobala kwexesha kuyinqaku ngqo. Njengayo nayiphi na ingqokelela elungileyo, unxibelelwano ngakumbi kunye neempembelelo onokuziqonda, kokukhona ingqokelela inamathelene ngakumbi. Iba ngaphezulu kokurekhodwa ngokulandelelana kweendlela zembali; iba yinxalenye yencoko kwisitayile esihamba kwiinkulungwane.Esi sisikhumbuzo sokukholelwa kukaHarold ukuba ubugcisa bexesha elidlulileyo bunokuphakanyiswa yile yanamhlanje. Kwaye ukubaluleka komsebenzi wangoku kucacisiwe xa kubethelelwe kwingxelo ebanzi yembali, utshilo uRegan.

Umboniso uphelela kwigumbi le-Apfel, olu luhlobo lweleta ebonakalayo yothando eya kuHarold Koda, othathe umhlala-phantsi ngoJanuwari 2015, emva kweminyaka eli-14 kunye nomyuziyam. Ngokucacileyo, wayenempembelelo enkulu kuzo zombini izinto ezibonisiweyo nakwifashoni yehlabathi ngokubanzi. Ukukhethwa kweziqwenga ezinikelwe ngokukodwa kulo mboniso ziboniswa ecaleni kobungqina ngumyili ngamnye malunga neKoda. Ngumnqa, nomnqweno wokuthinta imyuziyam- iziko elaziwa ngokuhlonipha imbali nohlalutyo olungqongqo. Kodwa olo luvo kunye nokukwazi ukwenza obu buntu yiyo loo nto isisiseko sesakhiwo esibalisayo somboniso. Kwaye ngaphaya kwamalaphu amahle kunye noyilo olukhazimlisayo, yile nto yenza lo mboniso unyanzelise. Isinxibo saseFrance, malunga ne-1730.Ngesiqhelo seMetropolitan Museum of Art

Umsebenzi wobugcisa: Ukukhulula ifashoni okwangoku iboniswa kude kube nguFebruwari 5, 2017 kwiZiko leCostume kwiMyuziyam yaseMetropolitan yoBugcisa, ebekwe kwi-1000 yeFifth Avenue. Iiyure ziCawa-Lwesine: ngo-10 ukuya ku-5: 30 ntambama, nangoLwesihlanu nangoMgqibelo ukususela nge-10 kusasa ukuya ku-9 ebusuku.

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