I-10 yeTekhnoloji entsha etshintshe indlela esinxiba ngayo iimpahla

Ngaphandle kokuphuhliswa kwetekhnoloji, ilokhwe yale mihla ayinakubakho. I-Costume Institute eMet's umboniso osandula ukuvulwa, Manus x Machina: Imfashini kubudala beTekhnoloji , ijolise kwimbali kunye nophuhliso lwe-couture, ehlala yenziwe yenzeke ngokuvela kwetekhnoloji. Ingqwalaselo ekhethekileyo ihlawulwa kubuchwephesha obutsha emva kwe-couture's métiers, ukusuka kwintsiba ukuya ekuhombiseni, ukuvumela abayili ukuba benze iimpahla ezimangalisayo. Kodwa zininzi izinto ezintsha kwimbali ezihambise imfashini kunye nezambatho phambili. Nazi izinto ezili-10 zokuqhubela phambili kwezobuchwephesha- ukusuka kwinaliti yakudala kunye nokulula, ukuya kwiprinta ye-3D yanamhlanje- ethe yaba nefuthe elibonakalayo kwindlela esinxiba ngayo iimpahla.

1) Iinaliti : Ukuthunga inaliti ngentamboIfoto nguMarkus Grossalber, ngeFlickr

Inaliti yoqobo yayenziwe ngamathambo ezilwanyana, iimpondo kunye namabamba, ukunceda ukukhulisa iString Revolution kwiminyaka engama-30,000 eyadlulayo. Ukuyilwa kwayo kwenza ukuba abantu bahlale kwiindawo ezibandayo ezifuna iimpahla kodwa khange isetyenziselwe kuphela ukufezekisa iimfuno ezibonakalayo. Iinaliti zazisetyenziselwa ukuhombisa amalaphu ekubonakaliseni ekuhlaleni nakwimiboniso engamanyala. Ngelixa kungathatha amawaka eminyaka ukuya kwinkqubo yefashoni yale mihla njengoko sisazi namhlanje, ukuphuhliswa kokuhonjiswa kwamalaphu kwakungokokuqala ukuba abantu basebenzise iimpahla njengendlela yokuthetha, njengendlela yokwanelisa intshukumisa yokuyila.

2) Isondo elijikelezayo : Isondo elijikelezayoIfoto nguSean Hurley, ngeFlickr

Isondo elijikelezayo laqanjwa e-China malunga ne-1000 AD. Ngaphambili, inkqubo yokwenza intambo yayinzima kwaye ingasebenzi kakuhle: imicu yayijijekile okanye ijikeleziswe ngesandla kolunye uhlobo lwesipikili. Umbungu wesilika, imibungu evelisa isilika, yeyinzalelwane yase China kwaye xa isilika yabo yayiphothwa ngesandla, yayingalingani kwaye ingathandeki. Ukungeniswa kwevili elijikelezayo kwatshintsha oko, ukuvelisa ilaphu elithambileyo, eliqaqambileyo elalifuneka kakhulu eNtshona, ngaloo ndlela lisungula i-Silk Road, kunye nokwenza indawo yentengiso yokuqala apho iimpahla zazithengiswa kwilizwe jikelele.

3) Iigayo : Umqhaphu MilIfoto nguJannis Andrija Schnitzer, ngeFlickr

I-Mills yathatha ivili elijikelezayo liye kwinqanaba elilandelayo. Eyokuqala yasekwa ngo-1740 ukubamba oomatshini abajikelezayo abasonta ifayibha ngaphandle kokusebenzisa isandla somntu. Ikwanazo nezinye izinto ezakhiwe ngoomatshini, ezinje nge-loom yamandla, eyenze ukuba inkqubo yokuluka ifayibha kwilaphu isebenze ngakumbi. Ezi zixhobo zokusila zithathe ukwenziwa kwempahla ukusuka kwimodeli ye-centric-centric ukuya kwimodeli esembindini wefektri, ekhokelela ngqo kwiNguquko yoShishino. Iigayo zagcina amaxabiso ezantsi kwaye zenza imveliso ekumgangatho ophezulu ngokufanayo. Ikwavumele abakudidi oluphakathi kunye nabasebenzi ukuba bafumane iimpahla ezingaphezulu, kwaye babe yinxalenye yenkqubo yefashoni ngokukopa iimpahla zabazizityebi. Iifektri zancedisa uphuhliso lwe-haute couture. Iindawo zokugaya isilika eLyons, eFrance, umzekelo, zazisetyenziswa kakhulu nguCharles Frederick Worth, umseki we-haute couture, ukwenza ingqokelela yakhe.

4) Umatshini wokuthunga : Umatshini wokuthunga iiviniIfoto nge-tatslow, ngeFlickr

Umatshini wokuthunga waqanjwa ngo-1830 ngu-Barthelemy Thimonnier ongumFrentshi. Inaliti ebhoboziweyo kwaye umatshini wenziwe ngokupheleleyo ngomthi. Kufanelekile ukusebenzisa umatshini wokuthunga kangangoko kunokwenzeka kwaye uxhomekeke kuphela ekuthungeni ngesandla kubuchule bokugqibezela obugqibeleleyo, ukuphelisa umbono wokuba ishishini le-haute couture lisekwe ekuthungeni ngesandla. Oomatshini bokuthunga banciphise nexesha elithathwayo ukwenza ilokhwe, ivumela abantu abaqhelekileyo ukuba benze kwaye bafumane iimpahla ezininzi.

5) Idayi yokwenziwa : Idayi emfusaIfoto ngu-Shadow Byrd, ngeFickr

Ngaphambi kokuba uWalter Henry Perkin Jr. avelise idayi yokuqala ye-aniline ngo-1856, ukudaya amalaphu kwakuyinkqubo ebiza kakhulu. Eyona nto ibiza kakhulu yayidayi emfusa eyayifuna ukuvunwa kwamawaka eenkumba ezincinane zecochineal kwinkqubo enukayo nevelisa nje isixa esincinci sedayi. Izambatho zazisenziwa ngemilinganiselo emincinci, nemfusa yayigcinelwe abo bazizityebi kuphela. Kodwa xa uMnu.Perkin, usokhemisi, ngengozi wafumanisa i-mauveine, okanye i-aniline emfusa, ngokudibanisa i-aniline ene-oxidized newayini, amalaphu amfusa aluhlaza afumaneka ngexabiso eliphantsi. Ifashoni yeelokhwe ezinombala omfusa kungekudala yalandela. Njengoko ishishini ledayi elenziweyo lalikhula kwaza kwaveliswa imibala emininzi, kwaveliswa incasa yefashoni enemibala eqaqambileyo. Ikwavumile nophuhliso lwelaphu elinexabiso eliphantsi.

6) Inayiloni : Inayiloni HoseIfoto ngu-shoubuliaole, ngeFlickr

Ngo-1935, ookhemesti eDuPont Chemicals, bekhokelwa nguWallace Carothers, inayiloni enelungelo elilodwa lomenzi, ifayibha yesilika eyenziweyo ngokudibanisa iikhemikhali kubandakanya i-amine, i-hexamethylene diamine kunye ne-adipic acid. Ngomnyaka we-1938, i-nylon yaziswa kuluntu, kwaye yayiyinto esheshayo. Ingenise kwixesha lefashoni elingaphezu kobuhle nje bobuhle; yayi malunga nentuthuzelo kunye nokulahla. Xa yayiqala ukwaziswa, inayiloni yayisetyenziswa ikakhulu endaweni yezitokisi zesilika. Iikawusi zesilika zazibiza, kungoko isitokhwe senayiloni esinexabiso eliphantsi saba yeyona ndlela iphambili yabasetyhini yokuzibandakanya kutyekelo. Ngoku, i-nylon inokufumaneka nakwimpahla efana nelokhwe kunye neebhlukhwe.

7) iSpandex / iLycra : SpandexIfoto nguStephen Frye, ngeFlickr

Ngaphambi kwe-spandex, iimpahla ezifanelekileyo-ezinje ngebhanti zazenziwe ngerabha. Irabha yinto engaphefumliyo, eyenze ibhanti yangonwabi. Ukutshintsha i-quo ye-quo akuzange kube yinto ephambili de kube yi-WWII, xa irabha yabelwa kwaye yahanjiswa ukuze isetyenziswe emkhosini. Ekugqibeleni, ngo-1954, usokhemisi waseDuPont ogama linguJoseph C. Shivers wasungula i-spandex fiber- into ethambileyo, eyolulekayo- eyayithengiswa njenge-Lycra xa yayaziswa abathengi ngo-1959, kwaye yayisetyenziselwa ukwenza i-pantyhose entofontofo. nezinye izambatho zangaphantsi. Kodwa impembelelo ye-spandex kwifashoni yayikude. Yazisa umbono wokuba imfashini inokuba ngaphezulu nje kobuhle, ikwanokusebenza. Itshintshe iimpahla zokudada, ivumela inkululeko yokuhamba kunye nokuqina ngokusondeleyo nasemva kokuntywila echibini. Ikwafumene indlela eya kumaqela e-ski kunye nabahambi ngebhayisikile ngenxa yeempawu zomoya zomoya.

8) iiteki : IitekiIfoto ngu-Nikolay Semenov ngeFlickr

Ngomnyaka we-1917, inkampani yerabha yadala i-Keds, izihlangu ezenziwe nge-canvas ezinee-soles ze-raber ezaba sisihlangu sokuqala sehlabathi, ngenxa yophuhliso lobuchwephesha kwimveliso yerabha. Ngomnyaka we-1924, umJamani ogama lingu-Adi Dassler wenza i-sneaker brand Adidas, eyakhawuleza yaba sisihlangu esaziwayo kwezemidlalo. Umkhondo weenkwenkwezi uJessie Owens wade wazinxiba xa ephumelela iimbasa zegolide ezi-4 kwii-Olimpiki zase-Berlin zowe-1936. Kodwa baba kuphela yinto yefashoni kwii-1950s xa uJames Dean wayezinxiba kumdlalo bhanyabhanya Umvukeli Ngaphandle Kwesizathu . Iziteki azifikanga kwinqanaba lenkolo kude kube ngo-1984, xa uMichael Jordan watyikitya isivumelwano no-Nike ukunxiba iiteki ezibizwa IJordani zomoya , Yeyona sneaker idumileyo yakha yenziwa (oko kukuthi, de Kanye Kanye Yeezys baphuma baya kwintengiso ngo-2009). Ngoku, iiteki zenzelwe lonke uhlobo lomsebenzi, ukusuka kuqeqesho olunqamlezileyo ukuya ekubalekeni. Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, iiteki ziye zaba yinto ephambili yefashoni, kunye nabaqambi abanjengoKarl Lagerfeld weChanel Couture kunye noGiuseppe Zanotti beyila eyabo imbadada yezihlangu.

9) iGore-Tex : I-Gore-TexIfoto ngu-Amara U, ngeFlickr

I-Gore-Tex ilaphu le-techno eligxotha amanzi elenziwe ngezinto zepolymer ezafunyanwa ngo-1969 nguRobert W. Gore. Ilaphu elikhaphukhaphu, elingena manzi, i-Gore-Tex isetyenziswa ikakhulu kwimpahla-yeembaleki nakwimpahla yangaphandle kwaye iye yaba yinxalenye ebalulekileyo yokunxiba ngamaxesha onyaka. Ubukho bayo buvumela iimpahla ezithandekayo ukuba zisebenze kwaye zenze ubomi bomphathi bube lula kwaye bube lula ngakumbi.

10) 3D yoshicilelo : Umshicileli we3DIfoto nguGeekubator, ngeFlickr

Ukuprintwa kwe-3D, indlela yokuprinta izinto ezinemilinganiselo emi-3, kutshanje kuye kwaba yinxalenye yezona ziqhelekileyo, kodwa yaqanjwa kwangowe-1983 nguChuck Hull. UChuck Hull wayesebenzela ishishini elincinci elenza lukhuni, lukhusela iitafile ngokusebenzisa ipolymer engamanzi ethi, xa inyangelwe nge-ultraviolet laser, yomelele. Kungekudala uMnu Hull waqonda esinye isicelo sobuchwephesha: indlela yokwenza iiprototypes, nezakhokelela ekuyilweni kwe-3D. Impembelelo yoshicilelo lwe3D kwifashoni ayikaziwa, njengoko isicelo sayo ukuza kuthi ga ngoku besilinga kakhulu; ekuphela komyili wefashoni owaziwayo ukuba asebenze nayo ngu-Iris van Herpen. Izinto ezisetyenzisiweyo ukwenza ilaphu zihlala zingenakuguqulwa kwaye zingenakuphepheka, kodwa izinto ezintsha ezingaphambili ziyaqhubeka ukwenziwa, kwaye kuye kwakho uphuculo olukhulu kwisantya izinto eziprintwa kuso. Kungathatha iminyaka de ukuprinta iimpahla ekhaya kube yinto yokwenyani, kodwa nje ukuba yenzekile, iya kuthi inyuse lonke ishishini lokuthengisa.