Eyona Indlela Yokuphila Incwadi kaGrace Coddington Ngumsebenzi wobugcisa obonakalayo

Incwadi kaGrace Coddington Ngumsebenzi wobugcisa obonakalayo

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Ngokunyanisekileyo kweencwadi zePhaidonNgokunyanisekileyo kweencwadi zePhaidon



Ubabalo: Iminyaka yeVogue yaseMelika (Phaidon), yidayari ebonakalayo ebonakalayo yomsebenzi we Vogue ilivo, uGrace Coddington. Le yincwadi yesibini ngomsebenzi kaGrace, eyokuqala, Ubabalo: Iminyaka engamashumi amathathu yeFashoni eVogue , yapapashwa ekwindla lowama-2015. Kububungqina bobungangamsha bakhe bokuba yinkosi yohlobo. Kodwa le ncwadi ayisiyo imbeko kuGrace (nangona injalo ipakishwa), nangona iyimbeko kubo bonke abafoti bokuyila abenza umbono wakhe. Kwaye, ngokusekwe kwindlela ayichaza ngayo encwadini, kubonakala ngathi igalelo lakhe belisesibini kubafoti.

Ukusukela ekuqaleni kokufota kwefashoni kwi-20 yokuqalathIinkulungwane, iimagazini zafuduka zisuka kwiipleyiti zemfashini kunye nemizekeliso zisiya kwiindlela ezininzi zokuveza imifanekiso. I-1930s ngakumbi, kugxilwe kwi-surrealism, yazisa uhlobo kwindawo entsha ngokupheleleyo. Abafoti abanjengoMan Ray, kunye nokuqamba kwakhe okumangalisayo kunye nobuchule bokulinga, uLouise-Dahl Wolfe, kunye nokusebenzisa kwakhe umbala ngombala kunye noRichard Avedon, kunye nemifanekiso yakhe emihle, egxile kwimifanekiso yefashoni, babengabenzi bezinto ezintsha ebaleni, benza iimagazini zefashoni ziziva zisika- emaphethelweni.

Kodwa emva koko, njengoko ifashoni yayikhula ngokuthe ngcembe kwintengiso, ngokunjalo nokufota, kunye nenani labasetyhini abaqhelekileyo ababekwa kwimvelaphi yohlobo oluthile ebonisa imifanekiso yohlobo oluqhelekileyo lwefestile trope yakudala. Vogue , kuzo zonke iimpazamo zayo, ihlala ikwazile ukunyuka ngaphezulu kwesibhengezo, ivelisa imifanekiso eyenze ibali elimnandi nelineengoma kuzo zonke iingubo ezibalulekileyo. Ifoto yomhleli kaPatrick Demarchelier kwaye ikhokelwe nguGrace Coddington.Ifoto: ngoncedo lwePaidon Press








Kwaye, uGrace ekhokela, imifanekiso, ubukhulu becala, iphumelele. Oku kubandakanya yonke into edutyulwe ngu-Annie Leibovitz (obhalwe ibio, ngokungaqhelekanga, ngesiFrentshi, kusenokwenzeka ngenxa yempazamo yokupapasha), njengakwi-Alice eWonderland ukudubula kunye no-Natalia Vodianova. Akumangalisi ukuba uninzi lweefoto ezimangalisayo ngokwenyani kule ncwadi azibonisi mntu udumileyo; Zibonisa iimodeli, ngokukodwa uNatalia, omnye wee-greats kwishishini lokumodela. Kwaye yile mifanekiso, ithathiweyo iyonke, eyenza ukuba le ncwadi ibe ngamava obukekayo. NjengoMichael Roberts, owayesakuba ngumhleli wefashoni e into evanithi ngokuthambile kwaye ENew Yorker kunye nomhleli wale ncwadi, ubhala kwintshayelelo, uGrace, ubona umsebenzi wakhe ngendlela engaqhelekanga yokubhala. Kwaye emehlweni akhe, zonke iifoto ezibonisa amabali akhe eemfashini ayindumasi enza uchungechunge lwebali apho kususwa khona unxibelelwano olunye olonakalisa yonke into. Besingayi kuba nayo enye indlela.

Ubabalo: Iminyaka yeVogue yaseMelika , Ebhalwe nguGrace Coddington, kwaye yapapashwa nguPhaidon Press, yi- $ 175 kunye iyafumaneka ukuze ithengwe .

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