(Imifanekiso kaGetty) Ngaphambi kokuba kudlalwe isidlo sangokuhlwa sika-Mongameli u-Obama se-1.5 yezigidi zeedola ngo-Matshi 29, 2011, indawo yokutyela yomphefumlo ka-Harlem Samuelsson Umqhagi Obomvu yaba yimpumelelo ebalekayo. Ngelishwa ithi ngelishwa kukungakwazi kukaMelika ukuqonda ubuhlanga, ubumelwane kunye nokutya kunokuba kunjalo ngezakhono zikaMnumzana Samuelsson ekhitshini.
NgoRed Rooster, umpheki owazalelwa e-Ethiopia emva kwe-Aquavit uzinike isabelo esinzima-ukubhala ingxelo yencwadi angazange ayifunde.
Kodwa yincwadi awayibhalayo, imemo yakhe entsha Ewe, Umpheki , ngaphandle kukaJuni 26 ukusuka kwiRandom House-eyona nto ibonakalisa kakhulu ukusilela kwendlela yakhe eHarlem. Ukuphumelela njengoko ivenkile yokutyela ibisisindululo seshishini, isilela ngokupheleleyo kwinjongo yayo yokunika imbeko kubumelwane, isiza endaweni yayo njengesiqhelo sokuzihlazisa ekuzithobeni, kufana nencwadi.
Ndizibonile iifoto zikaHarlem ngeentsuku zobuqaqawuli, uMnu. Samuelsson usixelela ngaxesha lithile, amadoda anesitayile anxibe iisuti, abafazi banxibe kakuhle kangangokuba babeza kufaka iimodeli ngaphakathi Vogue ukuba neentloni…. Ndayazi ukuba amaHarlemites ayathanda ukudanisa, ukuthandaza kunye nokutya.
Enkosi, Marcus, ngokukhwela uye kwimpambano yendlela iStigma St kunye neStereotype Blvd., kodwa asiyijongi iCotton Club.
Nantsi into umpheki ayithethayo malunga nale ndawo namhlanje:
IHarlem ayisiyo indawo yokudlala yeebhanki ezityebileyo kunye nabacebisi. Inabafundi bayo yonke imibala. Inabantu abadala abagcina imbali kwaye babalisa amabali amade. Inabaculi kunye nabazobi kwaye ndiyafunga ukuba ndiyamazi umntu ozalwa yedwa kaPrince…
Yonke le ncwadi ifundeka ngokungathi ibibhalwe sisiporho nguRudyard Kipling ngoncedo luka Amantombazana Iqhawekazi uHannah Horvath, ongakhange ahlangane nomntu omnyama kulo lonke ixesha lokuqala (ngaphandle kwalomntu ungenakhaya).
Abantu bayathetha omnye nomnye esitratweni eHarlem, iingxelo zethu zokuhlola. Baza kukuxelela xa bayithanda into oyinxibileyo naxa bengavumelani nesiqubulo esikwihempe yakho. Amadoda ancoma abafazi abahle kunye nabasetyhini nokuba baphendule ngohlobo okanye babaxelele ukuba baqhubeke nokunyathela.
Ngokunyaniseka, bendicinga ukuba umgca olandelayo uzakuba malunga nevumba elimnandi lecocoa butter kwiMalcolm X Blvd, kodwa ngethamsanqa, uMnu. Samuelsson usisindisa nakuphi na ukubuyela.
Okwangoku, ndingubani, ndingumhlali waseTaiwan-Chinese waseStuytown odlula ePittsburgh, eOrlando, naseDC, ukuba ndibambelele kwiHarlem yokwenene? Ndaziva ngathi kukho into engachananga malunga nokuthatha kukaMnumzana Samuelsson kule ndawo, kodwa ukuqiniseka, ndatya eRock Rooster kunye nomvelisi weemvumi uShiest Bubz ( Isixeko esimfusa Byrd Gang ) Inzalelwane yaseHarlem, endiyaziyo ukusukela ngo -08. Sekuyiminyaka emibini u-Rooster evulekile, kodwa uShiest wayengazange atye apho. Ngoba? Ngenxa yokuba ngalo lonke ixesha sisiza ngumnyhadala owongezelelekileyo we-bougie, utshilo, kwaye emva koko awunakufumana nento yokungena apho!
Into enomdla kukuba, uSamuelsson wafundiswa ngokubaluleka kokuthatha iiHarlemites, ezazithanda ukungatyi kwi-clusterfuck 125th Street.
Amanenekazi amadala ayecinga ukuba siziziyatha ngokwakha indawo yokutyela kwibhloko esecaleni kukaSylvia, ubhala, kwaye bonke oosomashishini abancinci abamelwane bahlala basixelela ukuba siqiniseke ukuba siyaphuma.
Kwakufuneka emamele. Uninzi lwabantu balapha bahlala beyiphepha i-125th Street, ngakumbi xa befuna ubusuku obuzolileyo. Ukuvula indawo yokutyela kufana nokuthengela umakhulu wakho waseTshayina iflethi ebhalwe uNombolo 4; inyani yokuba ungazamkeli iinkolelo zakhe ithi ngakumbi ngendalo kunye nokukhula kwakho kunayo nantoni na. Ngokuqinisekileyo uya kugxeka abazali bakho ngokungazi kwakho, kodwa kwimeko kaMarcus, ndibeka ityala kumajelo eendaba kunye noonodoli abenza le ntsomi.
Ibali elinomtsalane: UMarcus wazalelwa kwindlu yodongwe e-Ethiopia; Umama wakhe owabulawa sisifo sephepha xa wayeneminyaka nje eyi-3, kwaye wamkelwa sisibini esikhathalayo saseSweden kwaye wanikwa ubomi obumnandi obukumgangatho ophakathi, njengoko ebeka. Wafika eMelika eneminyaka engama-22, efumana umsebenzi eAquavit, apho waphakama ngokukhawuleza waba ngumpheki omkhulu. Kwiminyaka nje embalwa, waba ngumpheki omncinci owakha wafumana iinkwenkwezi ezintathu kwi INew York Times. Ngezo zibukeka, ulusu, intliziyo efudumeleyo, kunye nezakhono zokutshatisa, waba yinkwenkwezi ubusuku bonke. Kungekudala wayevula iiAvavits eStockholm naseTokyo, kunye neRiingo, kunye neMerkato 55, kwiSithili seMeatpacking (zombini oko zavalwa). Ukucinga ngesimanga sikaSamuelsson, umbhali-mbali wembali yokupheka uMichael Twitty, ibhlog yakhe, Ukutya , izinikele ekulungiseleleni, ekulondolozeni nasekukhuthazeni iindlela zokutya zase-Afrika zaseMelika, ekuthiwa ngumzekelo wesifo se-negro syndrome. Ingxaki, njengoko ebeka, kukuba xa kukho umntu obalaseleyo wombala, ngokuzenzekelayo uye abe yintloko yomfanekiso. Ndicinga ukuba umsebenzi wethu njengabantu bebala, ngokubhala, ukupheka, ukuthengisa, kufanele ukuba sibulale abo bantu. Iba yinto apho bathi khona 'Kutheni ungafani noJessica Harris?' 'Kutheni ungafani noMarcus Samuelsson?' Sihamba ngomgca ococekileyo phakathi kokuzikhethela kunye nokuziphatha.
Njengo Chef uJoe Randall, umnini wesikolo esaziwayo sokupheka eSavannah, uxelele i-CNN , kumxholo kaMnu Samuelsson, Baninzi abantu base-Afrika baseMelika abapheka kwaye bapheka kamnandi kweli lizwe, abayifumani nje into engaziwayo ngabantu abathile.
Ewe kunjalo, nangona sihlala sikhokelwa ukuba sikholwe ukuba bambalwa abapheki abamnyama eNew York, oku kuyinyani. Yayiphi i-foodie media ngaphambi kokuba iJerk City ivalwe? UPeter Meehan wabhala uphononongo olukhulu lweZoma , enye yeendawo zokutyela ezimbini zaseHarlem efumana ukwamkelwa kweMichelin Bib Gourmand, akukho mntu ubonakala ngathi udliwanondlebe noHenock Kejela, umnini.
Ndibuze uMnu Twitty ukuba kutheni uninzi lweentatheli zingafuni ukuqonda kubantu abanjengaye. Ngoku besithetha, ebeseLouisiana, esonga eyakhe Ukhenketho lwaseMazantsi , uthotho lwemiboniso yokupheka kunye neziganeko kwiindawo zangaphambili zokulima. Ifowuni yam ayikhali, watsho.
Emuva eRock Rooster, uShiest wayalela inkukhu yaseBerbere eyosiweyo. Wayengathi akazonwabisi.
Kuyacaphukisa, kuba uninzi lweendawo zethu ezintle ezifana neStrawberry zavalwa, kodwa ke oku kwavulwa nge-125, uMongameli weza, kwaye yafumana yonke ingqwalaselo kunye neliza elipheleleyo leeresityu ezintsha. E-Harlem, siyazingca ngokuba neendawo ezincinci apho abantu be-wow. Banikezela ngaphezulu. Le ndawo ifana nomzi-mveliso. Abantu abavela kweminye imimandla beza kwaye bacinga ukuba yile nto eyiHarlem, kodwa ayisiyiyo. Ngubani eHarlem ohlawula i $ 28 yenkukhu?!
Ebuzwa iingcebiso zamabala amele ngcono iHarlem awayeyithanda, igama likaShiest lajongwa Amy Ruth , eyayikhankanyiwe ngu Amaxesha kwinqaku malunga Ukungena kokugqibela kweendawo zokutyela eHarlem emva 2000. Iivenkile zokutyela ezintsha zeHarlem zinomtsalane okhulele ekhaya, u-Eric Asimov wabhala, ejolise ikakhulu kubahlali bexesha elide baseHarlem, bahlala benyanisekile kwimixholo esemaZantsi naseCaribbean.
Olo luhlobo lwerestyu ofuna ukuyibona yakha isiseko ebumelwaneni. Yindawo yokuqokelela, indawo yokuzonwabisa, kunye nomboneleli womsebenzi wabantu abahlala apho. Umnumzana Samuelsson kufuneka anconywe ngokubanabantu abaninzi abalindileyo abamnyama, kodwa nantsi indlela athetha ngayo ngabo kwimemo yakhe: Abafazi abanemibala kunye namadoda athandana nabathandana nabathandana nabathandana nabathandanayo ngombala baphumelele ngokwenene kwiintsuku zokuqala, ubhala, kodwa kungene amadoda amnyama athe nkqo ephethe i-chip emagxeni alingana namazinyo egolide kaLil Wayne kwaye bandinyathela ngokunyamezelwa noburhalarhume bamadoda angayazi indlela yokujongana nabasemagunyeni.
Banyathela kuwe, andibi kunjalo?
Ndibaleke ipaseji yintatheli USacha Jenkins ye-EgoTrip kunye ne-VH1's Umboniso (oMhlophe) weRapper . Kuyamangalisa ukuba
Emva kokufunda isimemo sikaMnumzana Samuelsson kunye nokutya kabini eRed Rooster, andinakukunceda kodwa ndigqibe kwelokuba ixhalanga lenkcubeko elinomdla kunye nokuzazisa njengesiqhenqisi sehlabathi sokungcamla akusekho ndawo. Into angayiqondiyo malunga neHarlem, ukutya komphefumlo kwaye mhlawumbi yena kukuba zonke zilungile ngokwaneleyo. Lelinye ilizwe ekufuneka libambe. |
ukukwazi ukuqesha abantu, uninzi lwabo ndicinga ukuba banemibala, utshilo uMnu. Jenkins, kodwa ngokucacileyo lo mfanekiso kaLil 'Wayne awunalusini ngokobuhlanga, kwaye uthetha ngokungabikho kwakhe kokuqonda malunga namava amnyama eMelika.
UMarcus Samuelsson lilizwi elibaluleke kakhulu kwihlabathi eMelika, kodwa oko akufuneki kumnike ilayisensi yokuthethela uHarlem. Ngokutya ukutya ngaphandle kweHarlem kunye nokuthetha nabo bahlala apho-izinto ezithembisayo njengokutya komphefumlo okuphezulu-uyiphatha njengendawo yemyuziyam. Uthetha ngeenkolelo, ezama ngamandla ukuthwebula imifanekiso yabantu belali bedanisa, bethandaza, kwaye befuna ukuboniswa kule ndlu yokudlala yokutyela.
Kwimemori yakhe, uMnu. Samuelsson ubonakala exhalabile ngakumbi malunga nokutya kwabathengi bedolophu. Kwiiveki ngaphambi kokuba kuvulwe indawo yokutyela bendizibuza ngamanye amaxesha ukuba abantu baza kuza na, uyabhala. Kubathengi bethu abanokubakho kwi-Upper West Side nase-Upper East, yimizuzu nje elishumi eteksini. Kodwa abantu bahlala bendibuza ‘Ngaba kukhuselekile? Ndizokwazi ukufumana iteksi egodukayo? ’
Uyaqhubeka, Besifuna kwaye sidinga iindidi ezintathu zedinala ukunika iQhude incasa ebesiyiqwalasele njengeyona yummiest: AmaHarlemites, amadoda nabafazi (nokuba ngowuphi umbala) ngabamelwane bethu, ubukho babo obunika inkcubeko kunye nombala oyiHarlem ; izidlo zedolophu ezithanda iivenkile kunye nokutya okumnandi; nangaphandle kweedolophu esele zihambile ukusuka eSan Francisco, Sweden, nase Mzantsi Afrika.
Ngapha koko, wenze okuncinci ukubhenela kudidi lokuqala. Ngezicelo ezingama-2000 zobusuku kunye nee-600 kuphela ezigubungelayo, uyavuya, Sikwishishini 'elingenantlonelo'.
UShiest wazama ukubhukisha ngaphandle kwempumelelo-de intatheli yakhe yolula isandla yasibonisa itafile. Akunzima ukubona ingxaki: I-Rooster ebomvu ithatha indawo yokubhuka iintsuku ezingama-30, oko kuthetha ukuba ubukhulu becala, kuphela izidlo ezicwangcisa uhambo kwangoko ziya kubethelela itafile.
Emva kokufunda isimemo sikaMnumzana Samuelsson kunye nokutya kabini eRed Rooster, andinakukunceda kodwa ndigqibe kwelokuba ixhalanga lenkcubeko elinomdla kunye nokuzazisa njengesiqhenqisi sehlabathi sokungcamla akusekho ndawo. Into angayiqondiyo malunga neHarlem, ukutya komphefumlo kwaye mhlawumbi yena kukuba zonke zilungile ngokwaneleyo. Lelinye ilizwe ekufuneka libambe.
Incoko yakhe yokuphakamisa ukutya komphefumlo sisiqhulo esingenangqondo kuye nawuphina umntu okhe watya kwiindawo zokutyela ezinomtsalane ezifana Nkosazana Mamie ’s , Inqanawa kaCharles yelizwe lasePan Fried , Londel’s , okanye nokuba kubiza kancinci IMobay Uptown . Kwaye kukho ii-cuchifritos zokudibanisa kunye ne-lechoneras ezigubungela ubumelwane, zikhonza i-rabo guisado, mofongo, arroz con pollo, kunye ne-bacalao. Izinto endizithandayo zezona zikhetha isosi yesosi.
Kwaye okwangoku: ESweden, senza i-skiing yelizwe elininzi, ubhala uMnu Samuelsson. Kwaye xa uskiya, phakathi ehlathini, hayi kwindawo ekuchithelwa kuyo iiholide, skier sokuqala kufuneka silime. Yile ndlela ndicinga ngayo ngam-kunye nevenkile yokutyela, kunye nendawo yokutya yaseHarlem. Ndingumfo ekufuneka elima.
Uye wathenga ngokupheleleyo kwingcinga yokusekwa ukuba iimpahla zetafile, iipleyiti zesikwere kunye neenkwenkwezi zichaza indawo yokutyela elungileyo. Inkqubo yexabiso ayisebenzisayo eHarlem ayisiyiyo eyakhe yamkelwa luluntu, kwaye ngokunyanisekileyo, bonke abamelwane baseNew York kunye nemiboniso yokutya bayayala nayo. Ngelixa abanye bethu bexakekile bephumelela iSixeko saseNew York ngenqindi yecilantro, iiglasi ezihlekisayo, kunye namagumbi okutyela ekrwada, uMarcus uphezulu eHarlem elima unogada omdala-ezama ukukrola intengiso entsha yovakalelo oluphelelwe lixesha. Ungenisa umxholo kwimilenze yakhe yokugqibela kwaye uzama ukukholisa uHarlem ukuba intsha kwaye kufanelekile. I-Rooster ebomvu inokusebenza ngcono kwindawo efana neLas Vegas eNew York New York Hotel, umzamo olusizi wokuphinda ubuyele esixekweni abantu abahamba behamba neziselo zesikhumbuzo. Ayisiyo eyaseHarlem.
Oko akutsho ukuba indoda ayinakupheka. I-Aquavit ihlala iyimpumelelo encomekayo. Ngelixa iRock Rooster yayiphosa izihlandlo ezininzi-inkukhu egcadiweyo yaseBerbere yeza ibhukuda kwisosi emdaka emdaka, isonka sombona sasisidala, kwaye irayisi emdaka eneerandi ezingama-18, kunye ne-shrimp engama-U26 ezintlanu, yayidiniwe-iminikelo yaseSweden, Njengee-Meatballs zikaHelga ezinee-lingonberries, zazibalasele. Umhlobo kaMnu Samuelsson wexesha elide kunye neqabane lakhe kwishishini iRed Rooster, uAndrew Chapman, naye ungowaseSweden, kwaye kulapho ke kukho ukuqonda okukhohlisayo Samuelsson.
Uninzi lwencwadi-kunye nenxalenye enkulu yobomi bakhe-bazinikele ekufumaneni ixesha lakhe elidlulileyo e-Ethiopia, kwaye iinzame zakhe zangoko ziyancomeka, zibuhlungu kwaye zibhidekile. Akukho mntu unokukuxelela ukuba ungubani ngaphandle kwakho. Njengowokuqala kusapho lwam lokuzalwa eMelika, ngamanye amaxesha ndiziva ndilahlekile, kwaye ngekhe ubekekise ityala umntu ngokuzama ukufumana ikhaya lakhe. Njengokuba ebhala uMnu. Samuelsson, ndichithe ixesha elininzi lobomi bam ngaphandle ndaze ndaqala ukuthandabuza ukuba ndingaze ndiphinde ndibekho nasebantwini abanye, nakweyiphi na indawo, nasiphi na isizwe. Kodwa iHarlem inkulu ngokwaneleyo, yahluke ngokwaneleyo, iyonwaba ngokwaneleyo, indala ngokwaneleyo, kwaye intsha ngokwaneleyo ukuba ingadibanisa konke endikuko kunye nayo yonke into endinethemba lokuba yiyo.
Ingxaki ngeRock Rooster kukuba ingaphezulu nje kukaMarcus Samuelsson. Kwiphulo lakhe lekhaya kunye nempumelelo yeshishini, wenza ukungabikho kokusesikweni okuqatha kwindawo yokuhlala, inkcubeko kunye nembali esele ibonile isabelo sayo somzabalazo.
Ke kwakhona, ukuva uMnumzana Samuelsson eyixela, izinto zijongeka phezulu. Ngesinye isikhathi, ubhala malunga nokuqaphela ukuba ingingqi yayitshintshe kangakanani kule minyaka mithandathu ukusukela oko wafudukela kuyo. Abantu babehamba neengxowa zojoliso ngoku, utshilo. Indenze ndancuma.
