I-4 yefête yexilongo yokuvulwa kwe-1.7 yezigidigidi zexesha leWarner Centre yayiyinto engenangqondo ukuba ngokucacileyo yayibhaptizwa eNew York.
UCindy Crawford, uWolf Blitzer, uKevin Bacon, uCalvin Klein kunye noSalman Rushdie babephakathi kweendwendwe ezingama-5 000 ezazilungiswe kakuhle ezixhoma ii-canapés ezinikezwe ngabahlali be-über-chefs-Thomas Keller, uGrey Kunz, uJean-Georges Vongerichten noCharlie Trotter-njengoJewel, UMarc Anthony kunye noCirque du Soleil bapholile kwaye bazilungisa ngokwabo ngaphakathi kwinqanaba le-biosphere-styled glass atrium.
Kodwa ezantsi, kwimigangatho esezantsi yesakhiwo phantsi kweNkundla yaseFoodie, ukukhula okubalulekileyo-okuphucukileyo kwinkcubeko yokutya eNew York kwakusenzeka: ukuvulwa komqeshi we-anchor ye-Time Warner, i-59,000-square-foot-whole Foods Market , ehlala ubukhulu besakhiwo esingaphantsi komhlaba.
Njengabanini bempahla ababukele ngononophelo ukuze babone ukuba ukuTya okuPheleleyo kungaphumelela kusini na kwibhidi yabo eshushu okoko-ukuthatha indawo yentengiso yaseNew York-iirejista zazikhala. Kwivenkile yokuqala kwivenkile, abahlalutyi baqikelela ukuba i-Columbus Circle flagship irekhode i-1,2 yezigidi zeerandi kwintengiso.
Ewe kunjalo, i-Whole Foods 'ingena ngenkani eNew York inikezela ngefestile kwikamva lokutya kwesi sixeko-kwaye ukubetha kwentliziyo yayo akukho kwiidolophu ezikude eRashiya okanye e-Itali okanye eFrance okanye eGrisi, kodwa kwikomkhulu lendibaniselwano e-Austin, Tex.
Ngaba abathengisi bokufika kunye nabantwana babo kunye nabazukulwana abathengisa izithako ezikhethekileyo kwiindawo ezixineneyo baya kuqhubeka bengabaxoxisi abaphambili be palate yaseNew York eqondayo? Okanye ngaba obo budlelwane buya kucoceka, iitisisi zomhlaba ezineetoni zaseTexas ezisekwe kukutya kwendalo okufumana iflatam yoMbindi Merika?
Kuya kufana ne-suburbia, utshilo uJoshua Russ Tupper, umphathi weRuss eyaziwayo kunye neNtombi kwi-179 Street Houston Street. Isizukulwana sakhe sesine ukuqhuba ivenkile, enemigangatho yethayile ye-palazzo, izibane eziqaqambileyo zesimbo sama-50 kunye neendawo ezipholileyo ezizele yi-Beluga caviar efanelekileyo, itshizi engaqhelekanga, isibindi esinqunqiweyo kunye neziqhamo ezomisiweyo.
INew York yindawo yeevenkile ezizodwa, utshilo. Ukuba ufuna itshizi, yiya kwiiMurrays kwaye uthethe nazo kwaye ujikelezwe sisi. Abafana abandisebenzelayo liqela labafana baseDominican abathetha isiYiddish. Ufumana amaJuda amadala engena kwaye athetha isiYiddish nawo. Ngamava ongafumani nayiphi na enye indawo.
Kwaye kubonakala ngathi kuyehla ngokukhawuleza.
Kuyanyanyisa, kodwa akunakuphepheka. Ukubona onke amanye amashishini amakhulu-ayisiyonto intle, kodwa andiboni ukuba ndingayimisa njani, utshilo uMnu Tupper. Ininzi kakhulu iRuss kunye neeNtombi ezingayenza. Kukongxowankulu.
Nangona inkampani ingawakhuphi amanani athile okuthengisa kwiivenkile ezizezinye, abaphathi be-Whole Foods bathe ivenkile yaseChelsea yeyona ndawo inemali eninzi elizweni, kwaye i-Columbus Circle flagship yayiphakathi kwevenkile ezintlanu ezinengeniso ephezulu xa ivulwe ekuqaleni kukaFebruwari.
Sisoloko sifuna ukuba seManhattan, utshilo uChristina Minardi, usekela-mongameli we-Whole Foods wezokusebenza kwengingqi ye-Mpuma. Kuyamangalisa, xa sivula i-Chelsea, zingaphi izicelo esizifumene kubathengi abathi, 'Hayi, ndifuna ivenkile kwindawo yam yaseManhattan. Kutheni ungavuli apha? Kutheni ungavuli apho? '
I-Time Warner Whole Foods iflegi ngoku yeyona venkile inkulu eManhattan, kwaye kukuvulwa kwamva nje kwetyathanga elineevenkile ezili-155 eMntla Melika naseBritane. Ngapha koko, ukumatsha okupheleleyo kokutya eManhattan kuyaqala. Ukongeza kwivenkile yayo yaseChelsea eyi-38,000-square-foot kumgangatho osezantsi we-Chelsea Mercantile Building e-252 Seventh Avenue e-25th Street, evulekileyo ukusukela ngo-2000, inkampani iza kuphehlelela ivenkile engama-57,000-square-foot-store e-Union Square e Ukuphela konyaka, kwaye ngo-2005 i-Whole Foods iya kuqala eBrooklyn ngeemarike zeenyawo ezingama-50,000 ePark Slope kwiThathu Avenue (kunye neendawo ezingama-200 zokupaka!). Abaphathi beenkampani bathi bacinga ukuya kuthi ga kwi-6 yokutya okupheleleyo eManhattan, apho kugcinwa khona iindawo zokugcina ukutya ezifana neFairway, iZabar's, iBalducci kunye neCitarella ngamaziko-kunye nezinto ezinoburharha be-cocktail-party prattle ngaphezulu kwevenkile ezigcina ezona nyama zityiwayo-kodwa ezo ikamva ngoku ligutyungelwe kukunganyaniseki likhonkco lamazwe aphesheya eliye lafikelela kwinqanaba lokuqaqanjiswa kophawu.
Ngokuqinisekileyo, ubukho babo bubeka uZabar kunye noFairway phantsi koxinzelelo olungaqhelekanga, utshilo u-Alan Victor, usekela-mongameli olawulayo we-Lansco Corporation, inkampani ethengisa ukuthengisa izindlu nomhlaba ejolise kwiipropathi zentengiso, ecebise iifemu ezisuka eDunkin 'Donuts zaya kuRalph Lauren indawo yokuthengisa.
Kwaye iivenkile ezincinci, iimakethi ezinkulu ezivulekileyo, iindawo ezinobuntu bonke abantu baseMelika abathanda ukuzibona kwimiboniso bhanyabhanya yaseManhattan? Umfo wetshokholethi yaseLudlow Street? Indoda yase-Essex Street? H kunye H Bagels?
Amaketanga abathengi esizwe awasekho kwindawo eNew York. Kwiindawo ezinje ngeChelsea, apho Ukutya okupheleleyo kwaqala khona eNew York ngo-2000, iibhokisi ezinkulu ezinjengeBest Buy sit check by jowl kunye neevenkile zokutya zesizwe ezinjengeOlive Garden kunye neOutback Steakhouse. Ukutya okupheleleyo, kunye nobuhle bayo obumnandi bomhlaba, ubume obubanzi kunye nokukhethwa kokutya okumnandi, kuye kwangena kwiminqweno yabathengi esixekweni ekhuthaze ukukhula okufanayo kwiimveliso zesizwe ukusuka eSoho ukuya eColumbus Avenue.
Ukutya okupheleleyo kuzalisa ukungabikho kweemarike. Banikezela ngokulula kwivenkile enomgangatho wentengiso encinci, utshilo uCarole Buyers, umhlalutyi olanda umkhondo wokutya kwendalo kweRBC Kwiimarike ezinkulu. Ukutya okupheleleyo kukonyusa ukhuphiswano, kwaye baya kuyitshintsha imeko yevenkile enkulu. Iivenkile zabo zinkulu kunayo nayiphi na into edolophini.
Ngokuqinisekileyo, njengoko isixeko sisiba kumgangatho ojolise ngakumbi kukutya kunye nezindlu kunye nayo yonke imveliso-intengiso iyatshintshela kwinqanaba eliphezulu, njengeZiko leWarner Centre ngokwalo, utshilo uJack Bloom, unjingalwazi olungeleleneyo wezorhwebo kunye nolawulo lwezinto ezintsha e ISikole soShishino se-NYU. Ngokuqinisekileyo ndicinga ukuba amatyathanga akumgangatho ophezulu anje ngokutya okupheleleyo athabatha isabelo sentengiso kwiGristede's naseFairways zehlabathi. Yinto eqhelekileyo-ngaphandle kokuba ungaphuma nento enexabiso eliphantsi ngokumangalisayo, njengemveliso yohlobo lweWal-Mart, kwaye ubhenele kwimakethi ephakathi.
Indlela yokusebenza ye-Fairway kuya kufuneka itshintshe. Akusayi kubakho kuphinda kukhwaze amaNazi okutya, utshilo uGary Giblen, umlawuli wophando e-CL. King and Associates, ifemu elandelela iinkampani eziphakathi. Ukutya okupheleleyo kuthanda ukuba liziko lentlalontle, njengeBarnes neNoble.
Ewe, uninzi lomnini-mbini we-Fairway uHoward Glickberg-akaboni nasiphi na isizathu sokukhathazeka.
Ukutya okupheleleyo yindawo entle, enexabiso elikhulu. Benza umsebenzi olungileyo. Andiqondi ukuba ziya kuba nefuthe kuthi; khange sive kakhulu ngempembelelo, utshilo uMnu. Glickberg. Zixinene kakhulu, ziya kufumana uhlobo lwezokhenketho lwabantu. Ukuba umntu ungena apho kwaye akhangele amaxabiso emihla ngemihla, aphume emgceni. Banabathengi babo, kwaye nathi sinabo. Ixabiso lelona thuba lethu likhulu-siphethe umgca opheleleyo wayo yonke into.
I-Fairway ngokwayo inokuba kuphela kokhuphiswano lwejuggernaut yaseTexas. Kunyaka ophelileyo, iziko lase-Upper West Side elineminyaka engama-55 lavula ivenkile engama-55,000-square-foot e-Plainview, eLong Island, kwaye inkampani ijonge iivenkile ezongezelelweyo kwingingqi yaseNew York. Kwaye ukufanisa imveliso yokutya eyi-Whole Foods, iFairway yandise ivenkile yayo ephezulu ye-Upper West ngo-1999 kunye necandelo lokutya lendalo elahlukileyo. Ngokuka Mnu.Glickberg, inkampani yathumela ukukhula kwamanani aphindwe kabini kukutya okuphilayo kunyaka ophelileyo.
UDane Neller, umphathi oyintloko weDean kunye neDeluca, ukwathe inkampani yakhe ibonelela abathengi abahlukeneyo. Akazange abone i-Whole Foods ebeka isoyikiso kwisiseko sabathengi esinesithende sikaDeluca.
Sikwicandelo elahlukileyo, utshilo uMnu Neller. Siza ngakumbi ngemveliso yeprimiyamu; zimalunga nempilo yeprimiyamu kunye nokutya okuphilayo. Ukutya okupheleleyo kulungile kwimarike. Yenza abantu baqonde umgangatho ophucukileyo. Iyanyusa inkalakahla yabantu. Kunyaka ophelileyo, iDean neDeluca ebibanjelwe ngasese ivule ivenkile yayo yesibini yeManhattan eneemarike ezingama-3,800 kwimakethi yokuqala kwi-85th Street naseMadison Avenue, kwaye inkampani ikwanayo nekhefi kwiziko iTime Warner, eku-enye indawo -Ivenkile yeencwadi yeMida.
NgeyoMnga, ngentshukumo eya kuthi inyuse ukhuphiswano phakathi kwamashishini okutya asezidolophini, iBear Stearns yafumana iSutton Place Group, inkampani engumnini weBalducci kunye neHay Day Country Farm chain, kwisivumelwano se- $ 50 yezigidi. I-Bear Stearns ngoku iceba ukukhulisa ikhonkco kwiivenkile ezingama-50 kwisithuba seminyaka emihlanu, ukwakha kwigama likaBalducci eligciniweyo elaqala ngo-1916.
Kodwa ziiManhattan ezincinci, ezizimeleyo ezingabona isoyikiso esikhulu kubukho obukhulayo bokutya okugcweleyo esixekweni.
Akulunganga kuthi ukuba nenkampani enkulu ekwaziyo ukufumana izinto ngexabiso eliphantsi kwaye sithengise izinto ngexabiso eliphantsi kwaye oko kukhula ngokukhawuleza, utshilo uRuss kunye neeNtombi zika Mnu Tupper.
Nanjengoko amashishini akhethekileyo aseNew York-amashishini okutya ngoku ejongene nemarike enolwandiso lukazwelonke olukhula ngokukhawuleza, iivenkile ezinikezela ngenkonzo ngokupheleleyo-kubandakanya iinkampani zokutya i-Food Emporium kunye ne-Gristede's-nazo zichaphazele imeko ephezulu yezidlo zase-New York. Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, abantu baseNew York baye bamkela umthetho odumileyo kaBrillat-Savarin olinganisa ukutya kunye nenqanaba lokuqina kokuqina kweemveliso zegourmet. (Kutheni isonka sika-Arnold xa kukho intlama emuncu evela eSullivan St. Bakery ibonakalisiwe?) Ukuchasana nokukhula kwe-Whole Foods, imixokelelwane yexabiso eliphakathi lexabiso liye lenyusa uluhlu lwazo lokutya kwendalo kunye nokungeniswa elizweni ngenzame zokuphucula umfanekiso wazo.
Kunyaka ophelileyo, sinezinto ezininzi zokutya eziphilayo kunokuba besinjalo kwiminyaka emine edlulileyo, utshilo uJohn Catsimatidis, umphathi oyintloko weRed Apple Group, engumnini kaGristede, iketanga elineminyaka eli-116 ubudala elineevenkile ezingama-43 eManhattan nase $ 300 yezigidi kwingeniso yonyaka. Asilibalanga ukuba ishishini eliphambili kwivenkile yokutya kukuhambisa ukutya ngexabiso eliphantsi. Ukuba uGristede uzimisele ukukhuphisana kwixabiso, inkampani ikwamkele iivenkile ezinefomathi enkulu ukwandisa ukusebenza kwayo. Ukusukela ekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1990, inkampani yavala ishumi elinambini leevenkile zayo eziziikwere ezingama-4,000.
Kunyaka ophelileyo, ukukhula kwengeniso bekunyuke nge-15 ukuya kuma-20 epesenti. I-avareji yeekwere zeekwere ezili-11,000. Iivenkile ezindala ezingama-4 000- ukuya kuma-5 000 ezikwere zeenyawo azisebenzi kwakhona, utshilo uMnu Catsimatidis.
Kodwa ngokuqinisekileyo ukutya akuyiyo yonke ibali. Ukuqaqamba kokutya okupheleleyo kulele kwintengiso yayo. Ngokufana neeSUV ezilungiselelwe abo bafuna ukuziva bewola ngaphandle ngaphandle kwiHummer H2 yabo nanjengoko bevalela abantwana kwimidlalo yebhola ekhatywayo, Ukutya okuPheleleyo-ngokwakha iivenkile eziphangaleleyo eziyilo olunomtsalane oluvuselela ukuziva kwesazela. -Urhwebeshe isizukulwana esitsha sabathengi abajonga ezokuthenga, nditsho nakwiziseko, njengokubonisa amaxabiso abo.
Ngo-2002, uKyle MacLachlan nowakwesiXeko kunye nenkosikazi yakhe ekwimfashini, uDesiree Gruber, bathenga ikhondomu entsha eyi- $ 1.35 yezigidi kwisakhiwo i-Chelsea Mercantile, ukuze bakwazi ukuhlala phezu kwendawo yokutya yendalo.
Ewe sisakhiwo esigcwele-nkonzo, kwaye ndiyakwazi ukuhamba ndiye emsebenzini, kodwa loo venkile yokutya-leyo yasiphosa ngaphezulu! UNks Gruber uxelele uMbonisi ngelo xesha. Iyamangalisa …. Kufana nonyango! Uziva ngathi uzikhathalele ngokwenene. Ayithelekisi nokuya kwikona yedeli.
Imodeli yoKutya okupheleleyo ininzi malunga nokubonakala kwevenkile njengoko injalo malunga nomgangatho wokutya. Iirejista ezingama-42 zazisusa abathengi ngaphandle kwivenkile ngokulandelelana ngokukhawuleza kwaye zigcina ii-aisles ekuxinaneni. Abantu baseNew York bayaya: ukulungelwa kweedolophu (kuboniswe ngenkqubo yokuphuma esebenzayo), kudityaniswa noludwe lwevenkile yokutya okulungiselelwe gourmet, okuboniswa ngokugqibelela okulungele ifoto-enye eya kudlula nokuqonda kukaRuth Reichl iliso. Inkampani ifumana iipesenti ezingama-65 zengeniso yayo ekutyeni okulungiselelwe-yonke into esuka kwibar yesaladi kunye neelensi zaseMoroccan ukuya kwi-chipotle lime tofu.
Banobuchule bokuthengisa imveliso yabo. Ababonakalisi kuphela kubathengi bokutya kwendalo, kodwa nabo bafuna imeko entle yokuthenga, utshilo uMark Hamstra, umhleli kwi-Supermarket News, ushicilelo loshishini.
Ukupakishwa kunye nomfanekiso wevenkile awupheli, nokuba kusezantsi kubasebenzi. Kubonakala ngathi wonke umntu ohlawula imali ubolekwe kwi-Amnesty International, utshilo uDavid Brooks, umbhali weNew York Times obhale ngokunyuka kokulinywa kweklasi yokusetyenziswa eBobos eParadesi.
Njengoko uNks Buyers ebeka: Ngaphezulu kwamava okuzonwabisa kunamava okuthenga.
