Iindawo zokutyela azikho nje ngokutya. Zikwangokonwaba. EParis kutshanje, enye yeendawo zokuqala endaya kuzo yayingeyiyo i-Alain Ducasse okanye indawo yokutya yodidi oluphezulu, kodwa iLa Coupole, kuba bendisoloko ndinexesha elimnandi apho. Ukanti ngenye imini eNew York, xa umhlobo wam wacebisa ukuba sitye eJoe Allen emva kwethiyetha, ndandikrokrela. UJoe Allen? Ngaba ukhona umntu oye khona? Ndothuswe nangakumbi kukufumanisa ukuba umhlobo wam, ongumgxeki kwimidlalo yeqonga, utya khona amatyeli aliqela ngeveki, kwaye noogxa bakhe abaninzi. Ngendingakhange ndithabatheke ngakumbi ukuba angathi baxhonyiwe eSardi.
Sihle ngezinyuko ezimbalwa saya kwigumbi elide, elimxinwa, nelikhanyisiweyo elinebar ephithizelayo, enabantu abaninzi ezantsi kwelinye icala kunye neetafile ezibekwe ngamalaphu atshekishwe ebomvu kwelinye. Igumbi lesibini lokutyela lingasekhohlo; Iindonga zinezitena ezivulekileyo kwaye zixhonywe ngemifanekiso eqingqiweyo yemiboniso ye-Broadway – zonke iiflops. Kwindawo yokutyela enamachaphaza egumbi kwakukho ubuso obuqhelekileyo obuvela kwindawo yemidlalo yeqonga, abantu basekuhlaleni, isibini sabafana ababekhangeleka ngathi ngamapolisa angekhoyo emsebenzini, abanye abagxeki bemidlalo yeqonga –kwaye nokubetha kwabakhenkethi.
Ukuqala kwayo ukuvulwa ngo-1965, uJoe Allen wazoba zonke iinkwenkwezi ezibalulekileyo, abalawuli, ababhali kunye nabavelisi bexesha, ukusuka kuLauren Bacall kunye noTennessee Williams ukuya kuDavid Merrick, uNeil Simon noRod Steiger. Kukho uJoe Allen wokwenyani, othe wavula iivenkile zokutyela eLondon, eParis, eLos Angeles naseMiami. Yayiyinkanti ye-Broadway, watsho ngomnxeba ovela eMiami. Nabani na owayesebenza weza apho.
Kodwa njengeLa Coupole, iye yehla. Ekuqaleni kweminyaka yoo-80, umnumzana Allen wathenga indawo yokutyela kufutshane nomnyango ngenjongo yokwandisa kuyo. Endaweni yoko, wagqiba kwelokuba avule i-Orso, i-trattoria yase-Italiya. Abantu bayeka ukuya kuJoe Allen baya eOrso endaweni yoko. Ukutya kwakungcono. Ndaye ndaqonda ukuba simlahlile umntwana wokuqala ngenxa yomntwana osanda kuzalwa, utshilo.
Ngethuba ebuyisela ingqalelo yakhe kuJoe Allen, imithetho yokutshaya yaseNew York sele iqalile ukusebenza, esebenza kuye: Ithumele abathengi abaninzi kakhulu, kuba ungatshaya apho.
Ngoku uJoe Allen akatsali kuphela abantu abatshayayo (ekunokwenzeka ukuba bambalwa kwiveki enye kunabo nabuphi na ubusuku eLa Coupole) kodwa abadlali beBroadway abanjengoBrian Dennehy kunye noStockard Channing, kunye neenkwenkwezi zemidlalo bhanyabhanya, kuba ngequbuliso kubonakala ngathi kuye kwaba kukungakhathali ukuba bazingqine kwiibhodi nakwisikrini. UNatasha Richardson kunye noLiam Neeson bahlala behleli. USteven Spielberg, uTom Hanks, uBette Midler, uCarole Burnett, uMateyu Broderick, uTimothy Hutton, uNicole Kidman noGlenn Close bonke bebekhona kutshanje.
Eyona nto ibalulekileyo ekubuyiseni uJoe Allen apho ebefudula ekhona nguAngus McIndoe, umphathi wayo kunye no-maître d ’kule minyaka mihlanu idlulileyo. UnguSirio Maccioni wesithili semidlalo yeqonga. Kodwa endaweni yomntu oqaqadekileyo wase-Italiya, ungumntu omncinci, oneenwele ezibomvu onentshebe, eneminyaka engama-30 kuphela ubudala, ovela eGlasgow. Umnumzana McIndoe waqala njengeweyitala kwisebe laseLondon iJoe Allen kwii-80s emva koko emva koko wasebenza eOrso. Abantu baseNew York bayathandwa ngumnini wakhe, athi abantu baseLondon babengekho. ENgilani, ndaziva ubuntu bam busendleleni. Abazange bafune isimbo saseScotland eLondon. Njengo Mnu. Maccioni, ubonakala ngathi ukho kuyo yonke indawo ngaxeshanye – ngobusuku esangena ngabo, wayesemnyango singekabinalo nexesha lokujonga iidyasi zethu-sikhumbula amagama nokuba ngoobani abantu. Lindela imizuzu emihlanu, ndiza kuba netafile entle kuwe.
Usibonise itafile ngasemva kwigumbi lokutyela elingaphambili. Ndiyathemba ukuba uyayiqonda ukuba lilungelo elingakanani eli, wasebeza iqabane lam, ujongeka uhlekisiwe. Yilapho uNatasha noLiam bahlala khona. Yitafile leyo.
Ngokubhekisele kukutya, bendingalindelanga okungaphaya kwehambhega efanelekileyo. Saqala ngecarafe yendlu yewayini- iidola ezili-15 ilitha – endandisoyika ngayo. Bekuselwa kakhulu (kukho uluhlu lweebhotile ezininzi kuluhlu, uninzi lwazo luseMelika, ngaphantsi kwe- $ 25, ukongeza kukhetho lweebhiya olunomdla). Imenyu ithe tye kwaye inikezela ngohlobo lwezitya oziva ngathi ungazitya ngokuhlwa. Ihamburger kunye nefry zezinga lokuqala, kwaye kunjalo nesibindi sethole kunye nesipinatshi kunye neetapile ezicujiweyo. Unokufumana kwakhona inyama yenyama elula okanye imbiza eyosiweyo, isandwich yegusha eyosiweyo, isuphu yebhontshisi emnyama okanye i-omelet.
Zonke iisaladi endizamile zazintsha kwaye zilungile, kubandakanya uKesare, isiGrike esityiweyo, esenziwe ngekhukhamba, iitumato, i-feta cheese, iminquma emnyama kunye ne-mint, kunye ne-endive kunye ne-beet eneshizi yebhokhwe, i-apile kunye ne-frisée. I-Asparagus yacocwa kwaye yafakwa iitumato ezinqunqiweyo kunye ne-vinaigrette ye-lemon. Ndiyithandile i-quisadilla eneshizi ezintathu kunye ne-jalapeño quesadilla kunye ne-tomatillo salsa (enkulu ngokwaneleyo kwikhosi ephambili) kunye ne-mussels ene-steamed kwindawo entle yase-Oriental sesame yesoya eyenziwe ngejinja kunye neelike. Ibruschetta edibeneyo, etshintsha imihla ngemihla- iitumato kunye nebasil, isalmon etshayiweyo, amakhowa e-portobello egcadiweyo- eza ngesonka esihle esivela kwiSullivan Street Bakery.
Ndifumene i-sirloin steak esityebileyo, kodwa iphekwe ngokuchanekileyo kwaye ndakhonza ngefriji enetyuwa. Isifuba senkukhu esosiweyo nesaladi efudumeleyo yebhontshisi yaseFrance yayinencindi kodwa ingathandeki. Iilwandle zaseChile zase-Chile zazintsha kakhulu, zitshisiwe, zenziwa phantsi kwesosi yetumato ebhedini yesipinatshi. I-trout eyosiweyo ayinayo incasa enkulu kodwa yaqiniswa kukusongwa kwayo kwemifuno yekholeji kunye nesosi yetumato.
IDessert yayiquka ikeyiki emarmore emnandi enesosi eshushu eshushu; i-blueberry kunye ne-pear cobbler, eyayinoqweqwe olunzima kodwa ukuzaliswa okuhle; kunye nesinqe esimnandi sepayi ebanana. Zonke ziye zanikwa isitshisi se-cream entsha.
KwiLa Coupole, iimbatyisi, itartar tartare kunye nemon tart ebendinayo ibimnandi, kodwa into eyenze ukuba ukuhlwa kube mnandi ngamandla ebekhona egumbini. UJoe Allen une-buzz efanayo – kwaye ayisiyiyo yodumo kuphela. NjengoLa Coupole, yintoni eyenza ukuba isebenze ngumxube. Kubaluleke njengokutya.
UJoe Allen
* 1/2
Isitalato i-326 West 46th
Ngama-581-6464
Nxiba: Eqhelekileyo
Inqanaba lengxolo: Iyaqiqa
Uluhlu lwewayini: Incinci, ayibizi, ininzi yaseMelika; iibhiya ezinomdla
Amakhadi etyala: Mastercard kunye neVisa
Uluhlu lwamaxabiso: Iikhosi eziphambili zesidlo sasemini kunye nesidlo sangokuhlwa i- $ 9 ukuya kwi- $ 19.50,
Isidlo sasemini: Emini emaqanda ukuya kwi-4 PM, ngaphandle koLwesithathu nangoMgqibelo ngo-11: 30 AM ukuya kwi-4 P.M.
Isidlo sangokuhlwa: NgeCawe-Lwesine nge-4 PM ukuya ku-11: 45 PM, ngolwesiHlanu nangoMgqibelo ukuya ezinzulwini zobusuku
* Kulungile
* * Kulunge kakhulu
* * * Egqwesileyo
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Akukho Nkwenkwezi: Ihlwempuzekileyo
