U-Dostoevsky kucingelwa ukuba uphawule ukuba umntu angajonga indlela ephucuke ngayo uluntu ngokujonga iimeko ezingaphakathi kwintolongo. Kuba asinazo naziphi na iintolongo kwi-Upper East Side apho ndihlala khona, ndikhetha ukuvavanya iivenkile zayo zokubhaka. Ngokwalo mgangatho, sityibilikiswa kancinci kodwa ngokungalunganga siye kuma ngxi. Emuva kwiminyaka yoo-70, xa ndandikhenketha esixekweni, enye yeendawo zokumisa yayihlala iMadison Avenue -ukungabavumeli bacofe iimpumlo zabo kwiifestile zeevenkile ezinje ngeGivenchy, i-Etro neArmani, Ngaba sonke sinakho ukwenza ezi ntsuku, nangona kunjalo, kodwa sisampulu yeempahla ezibhakiweyo.
Ukhenketho luqale eRigo, indawo ekubhakwa kuyo yaseHungary kufutshane nesitalato i70. I-Rigo ithengise amaqebengwana amaninzi amnandi, kodwa eyona ihleliyo engqondweni yam sesona sincinci sine sasifana nesibele somfazi. Yayiyikhowuni ye-marzipan efakwe i-cherry ehlanganiswe kunye ne-icing emhlophe. Ukuyiluma njengoko umntu wayekhuphuka eMadison Avenue yayiyeyona nto yenziwe kakuhle kakhulu.
Hayi iibloko ezisibhozo emantla kunye namanqanaba ambalwa ezantsi amileyo i-G & M, enye i-confectioner yaseHungary eyathengisa iiFlorentines ezilungileyo endakha ndazingcamla-nganye ilingana neFrisbee kwaye yambathiswe kukhetho lwetshokholethi emnyama okanye yobisi. I-G & M ikwanekhekhe enemilenze esixhenxe enokuthi inyange isizungu, kwaye amantombazana athengisayo ekubonakala ukuba ayeqeshelwe ubuhle bawo obukrelekrele kunesantya sokuthengisa. Isibini sabo besilanda kangangokuba ungabaxolela xa bethatha iqhekeza lakho lamaqebengwana asixhenxe ukusuka esiphelweni sesonka kunakwiziko, njengoko ubucelile. Kwakusoloko kuhlaziya embindini.
Ukuba awuzange ubekhona kwimood ye-marzipan okanye i-oceanic ye-buttercream, bekuhlala kukho uWilliam Greenberg Jr. Dessert, phezulu iibhloko ezimbalwa, apho uMnu Greenberg ngokwakhe abambe inkundla ngelixa ehlobisa amaqebengwana omhla wokuzalwa wezityebi kwaye idumile, kwaye apho i-Linzer tortes kunye ne-tarts yesanti, ndingasathethi ke ngee-brownies kunye ne-jelly thumbprint cookies, kubonakala ngathi zikubambela emqolo ngenxa yencasa yakho entle ngalo lonke ixesha uphuma enye emlonyeni wakho.
Kodwa utshintsho lukaMadison Avenue kwi-mall upscale lutshintshe konke oko. URigo wayengowokuqala ukubulawa, ebuyela kwenye ivenkile yakhe kwisitalato i-78th phakathi kweNdlela yokuQala neyesiBini-apho uLily Josephy, umniniyo, aqhubekeka nokwenza eyona rugelach ibalaseleyo eNew York, ndingasathethi ke ngesifuba sam, de wasweleka kunyaka ophelileyo, kunye neshishini naye. Mna noLily sasinolwalamano olukhethekileyo. Ngenye imini ndafika ekhaya ndinedenmark, ndavula ibhegi ndafumanisa iqela lomtshato likaLily ngaphakathi. Wakhululeka kakhulu xa ndiyibuyisa kangangokuba wandinika iSacher torte yasimahla.
I-G & M ithathelwe indawo yi-Better Baker, egxile kwiimveliso ezinamafutha asezantsi, kwaye malunga nokuncinci okuthe ngcono. UWilliam Greenberg Jr. Iidessert ziyaqhubeka nokusebenzela uluntu. Ngelishwa, ilahlekile eyona nto ibalulekileyo-Mnu. UGreenberg ngokwakhe-othathe umhlala-phantsi emva kokuthengisa ishishini ngesixa esicocekileyo. Xa wawungena evenkileni waze uMnumzana Greenberg wakubulisa, yayiphantse yalingana nokufumana enye yeetafile zangaphambili e-Elaine's. Akufanele ndiqhayise, kodwa xa intombi yam yokuqala yazalwa, uMnu Greenberg wandinika ii-brownies ezintathu zasimahla.
Ngokuqinisekileyo abanye baya kundityhola ngokuphila mandulo. Xa utata ekhumbula kaninzi malunga neebhaki eGreenwich Village eyaphuma kwishishini kwiminyaka engama-50 eyadlulayo, iyandiphambanisa. Kodwa iivenkile zokubhaka, ukuhambisa ivumba labo kunye nokuhamba kwabahambi ngenyawo, zibalulekile kubomi beedolophu njengeevenkile zayo zeencwadi, ngenxa yokuphela kwengxabano enkulu eyenziweyo. Inokuba yintoni iParis neVienna ngaphandle kweebhaka zabo? IMontreal okanye iNewark, mhlawumbi. Kutshanje ndiye ndafunda ingxelo yokungcwaba ehambayo kwiThe New York Times malunga ne-AM. USelinger, indoda ebaleka ivenkile yase-laclair Bakery kwisitalato i-West 72nd, enye iKonditorei apho bendinobudlelwane obukhethekileyo. Ngexesha lamahippie ekupheleni kweminyaka yama-60, xa uhlaselo lwabamba abanye babazali kwisikolo sam samabanga aphakamileyo ababeqinisekile ukuba sonke siza kuba ngamakhoboka e-heroin, umama ngokuzolileyo wavula ityala lokuhlawulisa mna nabantakwethu e-laclair.
Ndacinga ukuba kuba bonke abantwana bathanda izinto ezimnandi kunokuba yinto ethintelayo, ucacisile kutsha nje. Kubonakala ngathi iyasebenza kule meko.
I Times obit ikhankanye ukuba u-Isaac Bashevis Singer wayehlala e-laclair, apho igumbi lokutyela emva kwekhawuntari yokubhaka yayiyindawo yokuhlanganisana yeembacu zase-Central Europe. Andikhumbuli ndimbona apho. Kodwa emva koko, uninzi lwarhoqo lujongeka njengeMvumi. Ndiyazi, nangona kunjalo, ukuba ndaphakama kuqikelelo lwabaphathi kwaye ndayeka ukuba ngumntwana okhohlakeleyo ophila ngeakhawunti yomama wakhe ngomhla endafika ngawo isidlo sasemini noLouis Koch, utata kaSodolophu wexesha elizayo, endandikhankasela naye egameni lonyana wakhe. Kwiminyaka kamva, xa ndiza kulahla i-napoleon ye-cherry okanye i-quarter-pound ye-cookies, basabuza emva kukaMnu. Koch.
I-laclair, yeha, ihambe ngendlela yeRigo kunye ne-G & M. Andikwazi ukuyibeka ngendlela ecaphukisayo kuneThe Times 'obituary did: The shop is now a Krispy Kreme donut shop.
Iimvakalelo zam zelahleko kunye nokuzisola azingafani. Umhlobo wam uJennifer ukhumbula amavumba amnandi kaPatrisserie Dumas owayesele emkile engena kwiklasi yakhe yezibalo kwisikolo saseDalton. Omnye umntu endandifunda naye owayekhe wanelungelo lokufumana i-odolo yemihla ngemihla yokufaka i-baguette. U-Madame Dumas, owayengumlinganiso wobuganga obukumgangatho ophakathi waseFrance, akazange akhuthaze abantwana kwivenkile yakhe, ukhumbule uJennifer. Ngenye imini wabeka isitya seeqebengwana ezaphukileyo. Kodwa ivenkile yatyibilika ngokupheleleyo ngaba bafundi baxhaphazayo batshintshisa ii-cookie bits. Khange aphinde ayenze loo mpazamo.
Nangona kunjalo, kukho iziqithi ezinethemba phakathi kosizi ngokubanzi lokubhaka kweManhattan. I-Patisserie Bonté, indawo yokubhaka ehloniphekileyo yase-France kwi-Third Avenue kunye ne-75th Street, iyaqhubeka nokwenza uyolo oluncinci lwezine okanye iziqhamo njengoko umntu enokufumana naphi na. I-croissant eLe Pain Quotidien, ukufika okutsha eMadison Avenue kwii-80's, bakhuphisana nezona ndawo ziphambili zesidlo sakusasa saseParis. Kwaye ukuluma kwi-chewier apricot-filled or croissants powdered eSant Ambroeus kudala iinkumbulo zentsasa zasehlotyeni e-Itali- nangona ikwi- $ 22 iponti yee-cookies kunye nokudumba okuxhonywe kwindawo ye-espresso, andizukuphikisana nabo bajonga iSant U-Ambroeus uyinxalenye yengxaki njengesisombululo. Kuyafana neMaison du Chocolat, kufutshane neMadison Avenue kwisitrato i73. Abasebenzi baqhayisa ngokuba izinto ezibhakiweyo, ezinje ngee-macarons ezingama-4.25, zibhabha yonke imihla zivela eFrance, ezinokuthi zichaze ukuba kutheni bezonwabela nje ngejeti.
Eyona nto idanisayo kuko konke uPayard, indawo yokubhaka iFransi entsha kunye nebronzeerie efumanise lonke uphononongo. Indawo ephakanyisiweyo eyenziwe ngamaplanga kwiLexington Avenue phakathi kwezitrato ezingama-73 ukuya kwezingama-74 ikhangeleka intle. Ngokunjalo neebhaki. Kodwa incasa ayiphili ngokujonga, wabona umbheki wezonka ovela kwisikolo esidala. Ndiyavuma. Kusenokwenzeka ukuba wayethetha ngemeko yoluntu ngokubanzi: Into ebilayo yile, ndicinga ukuba bafuna ipinki yetyuwa.
